Do we finally have a modern Indian cuisine that everyone can appreciate?

Are we finally developing a modern Indian cuisine that Indians and foreigners can appreciate? It sure looks that way

These days, upmarket Indian food is big in Dubai. The city has always had its share of Indian restaurants but rarely have people been willing to pay much for Indian cuisine.



But now, Vineet Bhatia packs them in at his restaurant at Grosvenor House; Atul Kochhar has made an impressive splash; the Armani Hotel has its own fancy Indian place. And, a few weeks ago, Rajesh Bharadwaj’s Michelin-starred Junoon arrived in the city, travelling all the way from New York. (This is the restaurant that made Vikas Khanna famous.)



I was in Dubai for a brief trip and the first evening I was there, my childhood friend Reta Mehta (daughter of RK Karanjia of Blitz, so our family connection goes back to the 1950s, when our fathers were friends) invited me to Tresind, a new Indian restaurant at the Radisson Royal Hotel.



It turned out Tresind is not actually run by the hotel but is owned by a couple called the Naths who rent the space from the Radisson. The Naths are on to a good thing: the restaurant was jam-packed and people were waiting for tables on the evening I went.

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