HC dismisses lawyers’ petition against Prada over Kolhapuri chappal dispute

A division bench of chief justice Alok Aradhe and justice Sandeep Marne said that the petitioners were neither an affected party nor a registered association of the footwear makers.

MUMBAI: The Bombay high court on Wednesday questioned the legal right of six advocates to file a public interest litigation (PIL) accusing Prada of cultural appropriation after the Italian luxury fashion brand showcased Kolhapuri chappal-inspired footwear at the Milan Fashion Week last month.

FILE PHOTO: A model presents a creation from Prada Spring-Summer 2026 menswear collection during the Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, June 22, 2025. REUTERS/Alessandro Garofalo/File Photo (REUTERS)

Dismissing the plea, a division bench of chief justice Alok Aradhe and justice Sandeep Marne said that the petitioners were neither an affected party nor a registered association of the footwear makers.

“What is your locus and the public interest? Any person aggrieved can file a suit. What is the public interest in this?” the bench said. Responding to one of the petitioners’ arguments that he had done research on the matter, the bench said, “You cannot come to the court because of your social or economic background. This infringement cannot come under PIL.”

In their PIL, the petitioners had claimed that the Toe Ring Sandals and Leather Flat Sandals that Prada had showcased on June 22 in Milan were nearly identical to the traditional, handcrafted footwear made by artisans in Kolhapur in western Maharashtra.

Among other things, the petition sought a public apology from Prada and compensation for the artisans engaged in the craft. The petition, filed by advocate Ganesh S Hingmire, alleged that the product’s “genuine origin, traditional custodianship and Geographical Indication (GI) status were entirely overlooked”. It sought protection and enforcement of the rights of the community associated with the product, along with compensation for the “unauthorised commercialisation”, which has caused “significant harm” to the community traditionally associated with it.

The petition contended that the design showcased by Prada did not acknowledge Indian artisans who have been making Kolhapuri chappals for centuries. “The act of copying and misrepresenting this craft in international markets effectively amounts to depriving local artisans of rightful recognition and credit for their work, who have preserved and practised this traditional art form for nearly 800 years in India,” it stated.

The PIL underlined the need to establish strong and decisive measures to “address these violations and set an exemplary legal precedent that deters future acts of cultural misappropriation”. It also suggested the implementation of a permanent, comprehensive policy for international recognition of India’s GIs, and the provision of legal and financial support for artisans to enforce their rights.

While Prada’s counsel contended that a third party could not take up the matter in court, the petitioners submitted that the Italian brand had infringed the Kolhapuri chappal maker community’s intellectual property rights (IPR). They argued that it was their duty to provide justice to them, otherwise they would continue to suffer at the hands of foreign brands.

The court, however, questioned the petitioners’ locus standi (right to bring a legal case to court) and dismissed the plea, adding that a detailed order would follow later.

Since the matter sparked a row last month, Prada has acknowledged that the chappals it showcased were inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear. It also expressed its willingness to discuss a revenue-sharing model for Kolhapuri chappals made by traditional Indian artisans.

Last week, in a video conference with Prada’s representatives, officials from the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture suggested recognition of the Kolhapuri brand through a “Made in India” collection, partnering with local artisans. Prada agreed to the move. On July 15, a four-member team from the Italian company spent time with Kolhapuri chappal craftsmen in Kolhapur to understand the nuances of their craft.

With inputs from Saurabha Kulshreshtha