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The heritage of Onam reimagined with a fresh take on the traditional Sadhya meal
On Onam, Sadhya, a vegetarian feast of seasonal produce is enjoyed in Kerala. Indian chefs share how they are giving the traditional flavours a modern twist
Onam, a festival celebrated in Kerala to mark the end of the rice harvest season and commemorate the once-in-a-year return of the virtuous King Mahabali from the underworld, is accompanied by a grand feast. This all-vegetarian meal is served on a banana leaf and includes over 20 dishes. It incorporates all six senses, ensuring a perfect balance of salty, sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, and astringent flavours.
Traditionally, the food served during the sadhya includes the matta or red rice, which is paired with sambar, prippu (a type of dal eaten with ghee), rasam (a tomato and tamarind curry), along with avial (mixed vegetables with coconut), thoran (stir-fried vegetables with coconut) and several pachadis (similar to a raita with vegetables or fruits). Items like ginger pickle (Puli Inji) and banana chips (Sarkaravaratti) are also part of this meal.
While this quintessential Kerala meal is flawless, chefs are trying to change things up and offer people a new take on it. They are working to create something new by taking a few notes from the conventional and giving it their own spin.
Inspired by the Payasam, Executive Chef Suresh Rajan Pillai of the Marriott Executive Apartments Hyderabad, is serving up palm jaggery caramel pudding. He says, “I have reimagined the festival’s most beloved dessert - the classic payasam, usually made with rice, milk, sugar, and spices. The innovation lies in my choice to substitute refined sugar with palm jaggery, creating a caramel base that is richer, deeper, and tinged with a subtle earthiness. Also, palm jaggery has always been a staple in Kerala homes.”
Ask him why he opted to make this switch up for the festival, and he shares, “Across India, I see chefs increasingly reimagining regional desserts into plated formats, giving traditional flavours a fine-dining edge. A small twist to a classic recipe creates an entirely new experience without losing its essence. This dish is my way of contributing to that conversation while staying firmly connected to Kerala’s festive heritage.”
Inji Puli or puli inji, call it what you want, but this pickle is a must for every sadhya. A dark brown, sweet-sour-spicy pickle, it is made of ginger, tamarind, green chillies and jaggery, prepared mainly during Onam. At Gateway Bekal in Kerala, the Inji Puli Thullal is inspired by the pickle. Lokeshkumar Munusamy, Food & Beverage Manager, says, “This beverage celebrates Kerala’s culinary heritage, while reimagining it in a modern form. A mocktail, it has the boldness of ginger, the tanginess of tamarind, and the warmth of spices, perfect for these rainy months. We have ensured that we maintain the balance and depth of flavours intact.”
On the other hand, Chef Paul Kinny, Director of Culinary at The St. Regis Mumbai, has created the Drum ’n’ Peel Taco. It is packed with flavours associated with the southern parts of India. He says, “The humble banana flower and earthy moringa seed, dressed in coconut, spice, and inji puli is cradled in a ragi dosa shell — a dialogue between Kerala’s sadhya and today’s table.”
Avial is a beloved dish that forms an integral part of the sadhya. Chef Bhushan Hargane, Sous Chef, Sheraton Grand Pune Bund Garden Hotel, has elevated this dish by turning it into ragi waffle canapés. “With millet having a moment, we wanted to showcase them in a way that’s both nostalgic and contemporary. The waffles are made with ragi and rice flour, ginger, coconut, curry leaves, and buttermilk. To bring in the soul of Onam, we created an avial-inspired foam by blending coconut milk, yoghurt and avial masala. Garnished with pappadam shards, toasted coconut, and a drizzle of chilli oil, this dish carries the comfort of a sadhya but is playful and modern.”
At Eve Santacruz, Chef Sandeep Shreedharan is serving up a White Asparagus Olan, a contemporary reinterpretation of the mild-flavoured curry made from pumpkin, black-eyed peas and thin coconut milk. “We’ve chosen the delicate white asparagus as the hero ingredient as it adds a refined, seasonal freshness while retaining the gentle coconut milk base and subtlety that makes Olan such a soulful dish. This dish came into being when I did a pop-up in Bavaria during the asparagus season,” he shares, adding that the restaurant also has added their take to the Pazham Pori, by reimagining the banana fritters and serving them alongside a rich jackfruit curry made with roasted coconut (varutharacha).
