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Brand India sells well
The little oases of colour, chaos and smells of Indian stores are a welcome relief, writes Kanupriya Vashisht.
A child gaping at fluttering balloons while his mother squeals over a pile of gaudy sweaters; a kulfi wallah weaving in and out of blaring traffic; a hawker trying to push his cart away from a ravenous cow and an irate policeman; the smell of kababs floating through the thick sweetness of incense - Indian markets are a riot of colour, sound, sight and smell.
That is why when Indians land in Arizona, eager to be mesmerized, the homogeneous affluence of this American desert hits them as an anticlimax. In an infinite expanse of sandy pink and cactus green, the riotous Indian sensibility feels rather let down.
This explains the huge popularity of Indian stores in Arizona - the little oases of colour, chaos and a thousand Indian smells. They fulfill an unexplained void that no American dream can fill.
After an overdose of decaf coffee, cheeseburgers, deodorized malls, and crisp American smiles, Indians rush to the cozy commotion of an India Plaza or India Bazaar with almost pious urgency. Here even the pirated tunes of Anu Malik manage to excite a mix of patriotism and homesickness.
Most Indian grocery stores in America package well the lure of home away from home. So much so, "The next time you think India, you think India Plaza," says Raveen Arora, owner of India Plaza, one of the biggest, most popular grocery stores in Arizona.
In America for the last 25 years, Arora came to Arizona from the Silicon Valley in 2003. In just a year he made it to the AZ Business Gazette as one of 10 Arizona stores that posted a profit in their first year of inception. He also won the "Best of Phoenix" award for his huge Bollywood movie collection that boasts 6,000 titles ranging from the early 1940s to the very latest.
India Bazaar, Asia Bazaar, Bombay Bazaar, Reddy's Corner - all in all Arizona has about 10 Indian stores. They are compact one-stop shops for all things Indian. Their customers, however, comprise not only Indians but also Americans, Asians and some enthusiastic British expatriates. Americans actually constitute 10 per cent of Arora's total customer base.
"A lot of American chefs shop here for condiments and Basmati rice. They are looking to spice up their pastas and pizzas," he says. Encouraged by the demand, he has now started exclusive cooking classes for Americans and plans on opening four more stores in Arizona.
Luke William Dorsett loves spicy Indian food. His friends introduced him to Indian stores. Now he is hooked. "I came to India Plaza looking for Kashmir chilli powder and chicken masala. I ended up staying for hours exploring all the variety. Now I am a regular," Dorsett says.
Jan and Jim patiently look through the aisles of India Bazaar. Jan says she read about Neem oil on the Internet and wants it for her skin. Her husband, Jim, is eagerly searching the store for some home-baked cookies.
Hina Shah, the 47-year-old Gujarati owner of India Bazaar, says 25 per cent of her customers are non-Indians. "A lot of Americans come here looking for very typical stuff like pickles, tandoori chicken masala, tea leaves, samosas, herbal cosmetics, hair products, henna and classical music."
Even American grocery counterparts like Trader Joes and Whole Foods that stalk Indian spices, naans, chutneys and ready-to-eat dishes, feel the competition.
While Americans and Europeans come to Indian stores for exotic curries and herbal cosmetics, Indians come here for something more basic. They linger a lot longer, seeking a bond with others like them. They share recipes and grievances in a spattering of Tamil, Marathi, Gujarati, Bengali and Hindi. They discuss many things - from Indian politics to the local garba competition.
Koyal Roy, a Bengali and a foodie, says she looks forward to her trips to Indian stores because they transport her to the warmth and commotion of Kolkata. And, of course, she loves to shop, eat chaat and rent movies at the same place. Narendra Lakamraju comes because it "feels like home," and he gets to pick vegetables he can't find anywhere else - "tori and chotta baigan."
Anurag Khare, the Allahabadi, is very picky about his brand of "Dehradun Basmati." He likes to get exactly what he wants, not similar tasting substitutes. And where else would he find Dehradun Basmati but the bountiful Indian stores that stalk up every thing conceivable?
Jashim Uddin, 44, owns I-Mart, a store geared at Asian students. He too has a ready supply of Indian drinks, pickles and spices. Uddin who has done business in the Middle East for many years says, despite lesser returns on investment, he enjoys doing business in America because "people have human rights here."
However, in this land of human rights, it is human touch that people seek. And most Indian storeowners have mastered the consummate art of Indian courtesy. With folded hands and smiling eyes they sell much more than garam masala and Basmati rice--they provide a dash of colour and compassion; a home in a desert.
