Cool kurtas now get an oriental touch

Even though Ashima-Leena Singh may not be one of the best designers in the country today, they have a niche audience who would like to wear Indo-Western outfits.

Even though Ashima-Leena Singh may not be one of the best designers in the country today, they have a niche audience who would like to wear Indo-Western outfits. Most fashionistas look down upon the 32-inch kurta worn with straight pants. Ashima, a NIFT, batch of '90 graduate believes it still sells well. One doesn't know the market she is talking about!

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This is their fourth year at LIFW. Of the designer duo Ashima is the chief architect and Leena the marketing genius. This time they have come up with yet another 'fusion line'. "It's back to the Orient for inspiration, whether it's saris embroideries with the dragon extensively used as a motif to symbolise happiness or the sheer transparent linen, that's sheer and sexy," says Singh. Heavy georgette, satin are back, with asymmetrical cuts and layered trousers bunched up at the ankle. But the highlight is the dhoti-style trouser. "It's a watered down version of the inflated dhoti minus a few layers, with a bit of rouching and gathering. We are also using scarf skirts with ivory on ivory embroidery or three-dimensional embroidery. And we are also using the dragon motif in its various avatars in our outfits," says Singh.

The designers have replicated the Oriental spirit which you see in Ming vases, Chinese watercolour paintings and the intricate workmanship on their saris or short kurtas. In terms of silhouette too it's the Kimono style that is making waves with cross over backs, low slung but a bit modernised with sleek cuts," informs Singh.

Singh believes Indian fashion designers need to be more serious about their work. "I visited the Ralph Lauren boutique in Paris this year and he was undoubtedly flawless in his cuts, but we can beat him in the embroidery and embellishments. That's the reason why designers from Fendi to Christian Dior come here to source material and finish it back home," informs Singh.

With 43 garments to be showcased at the LIFW this year, Singh hopes most designers understand this is a trade show so the chalta hai attitude won't work.