It’s a fine balance

With the opening of Obo, SoBo’s party animals just got another place to boogey through the night. Vidhi Bhargava tells more.It’s a fine balance
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Updated on Feb 21, 2009 12:35 PM IST
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Hindustan Times | ByVidhi Bhargava, Mumbai

With the opening of Obo, SoBo’s party animals just got another place to boogey through the night. The brainchild of entrepreneur socialite Raja Dhodhy and friend Rishi Acharya, the restaurant-club-bar with its unassuming entrance, is in a dark bylane next to Hotel Apollo. But once inside, Oba has an air of exclusivity.

Understated elegance
The glitzy bar and lounge area is swathed in crimson red technicolour lights. The dining space on the first floor is a complete contrast—sparse interiors, cream walls, starched white linen, dark wood flooring and high-back tan leather chairs.
Panfried foie gras (Rs 500) had the foie gras sitting on a bed of crisp melba toast. It was served alongside poached pears. A good interplay of the sweetness and richness of liver and the pears.

I was mildly-disappointed with the Pan-fried Halloumi. I loved the crispness of the Greek Halloumi cheese but didn’t take too well to its slight (very slight) chewy rubberiness. It was also a bit too salty and to add insult to injury, the cheese and the beans, served alongside, were floating in what looked like a ladleful of olive oil.

Chorizo and red snapper plays with different textures (Rs 500). Thin, grilled slices of chorizo on top, followed by a plump fillet of juicy, pan-fried red snapper and a creamy, flavouful risotto. Mmm!

Veggie delight
Artichoke and Fava Beans (Rs 450) was an interesting mix of beans, shallots, sun-dried tomatoes in a cheesy sauce. It has a rich, smooth texture. The sauce was clearly the dominant flavour, though I wished it were the other way round. The focaccia bread served on the side however was absolutely first rate — soft, moist and well-seasoned.

The entire menu is fairly limited, as are the desserts. The Orange Crème Brûlée was superlative.. smooth crème and citrusy slivers of sweetened orange rind spilling out of the small pie. The meal however sat heavy on my stomach, almost for 24 hours. Not such a great feeling.

The service was pleasant and professional. Oba is a welcome newcomer to the Colaba fine dine scene, widening options for diners. But whether it can stand the test, with illustrious neighbours like Indigo and Busaba, only time will tell.

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