Exploring the unknown Tawang

A journey to Tawang does test your resolve but the place is a must-visit

Whenconversations started about a potential trip to Tawang in ArunachalPradesh, I was overjoyed. Not because I had heard or read about the beautyof the place or its famous tourist spots. On the contrary, it was becausenot a soul I knew had ever visited it and itcertainly didn't rank on the average Indian traveller's wish list. Thisunknownfactor worked in its favour as did the exotic name of cities en route --Bomdila or Dhirang.

First things first, due to past (read Indo-China 1962 War) and currenttensions (a border dispute remains till date), a permit is a necessity toenter the state. That done, there are constant checkpoints where you willbe stopped and your IDs checked along a 413-km route from Guwahati toTawang, often making you feel like an outsider in your own country.

If that's not enough, the only access road to the exotic cities mentionedabove is in deplorable condition, causing a car to breakdown with nomechanic available for a good 50 km either way. And if you are stillconvinced about that trip, there's also changing weather conditions, ghatsthat go on forever, steep valleys and inwinter, early nightfall at4 pm, to deal with.

A trip to Tawang really tests your resolve, but you will be rewarded withbeauty unparalleled. Take for instance, the PT Tso Lake. Close to theChina border, it is a beautiful water body that often freezes in winter,the snow around it acting as a striking contrast on the brown mountains.The cold makes it difficult for fish to survive in water and trees toocan't sustain. The fact that you are probably on a Chinese gunman's radar,due to their vantage points in the surrounding mountains, adds to one'sdiscomfort.

Then there are the Jang waterfalls, where our guide was happy to show usthe exact spot where certain scenes of the Shah Rukh- Madhuri starrerKoyla were shot. And for those interested in history, there's a400-hundred-year-old monastery where the mind can find some peace in theconstant chanting of the Buddhist monks.

And yes, of course, two war memorials (The Jaswant Garh Indo ChineseMemorial that lies en route or Tawang's War Memorial) can evoke patrioticfeelings in you or cause for a sombre moment. Spend some time reading thenames and tales of several jawans who laid down their lives for thecountry. Or bump into asoldier or two, and over a cup of tea discuss theirday-to-day life. Or as in our case, just speak in Marathi to remind him ofhome.

A stay in Tawang is memorable, but be prepared for lack of hospitalityfrom the natives. But considering the hostile conditions and the fact thatthis could easily be one of the most beautiful places on earth, thetransgression can be easily overlooked. So do visit, please.

Sela Pass
The Sela Pass is the second highest motorable road in the world, and is enroute to Tawang. The pass stands at a height of 13,700 feet. The pass wasnamed after a girl (Sela) who died a martyr. In winter, weather conditionschange rapidly and cars engines are known to shut down due to the intensecold. Paradise Lake lies close to the pass and often freezes over inwinter. The pass is a popular tourist spot.

Getting there
From Guwahati, Tawang lies at a distance of 413 kms. The best time tovisit is winter and an overnight stop at Dhirang or Bomdila is highlyrecommended. At Tawang, do not expect or look for five-star accommodation.A simple room with a heater should suffice. The local market offersseveral Chinese products but do visit several shops to get best price.Also, do not expct much hospitality from the locals. A car is a must theentire time you are the tourist spot since it is at adistance from the city centre.

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