Remnants of a grand legacy

More than 40 years after the Beatles came to India, we revisit the ashram where they sought musical salvation

The pictures taken byphotographer PaulSaltzman of TheBeatles in Rishikesh, whilethey spent three months atthe Maharishi Yogi Ashramin 1968, are some of myfavourite photographs of thefab four. I've always found theeasy languor and freedom ofspirit portrayed in those picturesvery attractive. I particularlylike a picture ofLennon and McCartneydressed in kurtas and chappals,composing together sittingon a doorstep. I hadalways wanted to stand onthe same spot where theband once stood and gavetranscendental meditation ashot. I wanted to visit theashram where they wrotemany of the songs thatappeared on the band's lateralbums, especially the WhiteAlbum. Maybe I'd spot astray piece of paper withsome lyrics scribbled on itthat had miraculouslysurvived the ravages of time,just as their music has.

The Beatles Ashram, as itis better known, is hard tofind these days. It is tuckedaway inside the RajajiNational Park in Rishikesh,Uttrakhand. During a recentvisit, I was determined totrace it down and pay myrespects.You have tocross the Gangaand walk about4 km past variousashramsand cowsheds,till you comeacross a signboardthatpoints to theBeatles Ashram.Soon you reacha shady alcove, besides whichthe river flows peacefully, itswaters glistening in the sun.

The ashram itself is in astate of ruin. There is onlyone guard whokeeps watch fromone of thebalconies on thefirst floor. Thearchitecture of theashram is simpleand elegant, andreminds me of ahaveli. The peelingarches, the brokenstairs and thecrumbling jaali doors seemfrozen in time. I stand theretransfixed, turning back timeas I walk into musty roomsthat smell of decay, wonderingwhose private enclosure Iam trespassing.

It's unfortunate that thismusical monument has notbeen restored by anyone andis falling apart every day. I'drecommend every visitor toRishikesh to go to theashram. If you are a Beatlemaniac, then put this right ontop of your must-visit list!

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