Revisiting the renaissance

The sheer energy of the ancient city of Prague makes it great for a weekend visit or even a long, leisurely trip

The capital of thethe CzechRepublic has a lifeof its own.Sightseeingbegins right fromthe railway station, a uniqueone with a lush gardenaround it. The best way tobegin is at the NationalMuseum, followed by theWenceslas Square and thefamous Charles Bridge.

Founded in 1818 as aregional natural historymuseum, the architecturalsymbol of the Czech NationalRevival was completed in1890 in a Neo-Renaissancestyle. Wenceslas Square, oncea horse market, is nowflanked with cinemas, souvenirstores and cafes offeringCzech beer.

The 750-metre-long and60-metre-wide square hasseen a great deal of Czechhistory. In 1969, a universitystudent, Jan Palach, burnthimself to death in protestagainst the Warsaw Pactinvasion. In November 1989,protest meetings againstpolice brutality were heldhere, leading to the VelvetRevolution and the end ofcommunism inCzechoslovakia. In the middleof the square is a monumentof St Wenceslas on ahorse, accompanied by sculpturesof four Czech saints.

Beautiful architecturefrom varying periods is displayedin building clusters --the Rococo Kinsky Palace,Gothic Tyn Cathedral,Baroque St. Nicholas Church,National Museum, StateOpera, Church of St Ignatius,and the Clock Tower whichattracts the most eyeballs.Groups of tourists gatheraround looking up in anticipationevery hour, when thewindow opens and the apostlesgive their blessings.

You're overwhelmed by thelive music, stalls dishing outtraditional Czech specialitieslike old Prague ham, Halusky(a snack made of potatoes,cabbage and bacon), storesselling an amazing range ofmarionettes, colourful crystalsand cut glassware whichthe country is famous for.Some factories like Ruckl atNizbor offer a free tour.

A spot that sets you thinkingis the Jewish Quarterwhich also has the cemetery,founded in 1478, and Europe'soldest surviving Jewishcemetery with over 12,000gravestones. During the Naziregime, people were buriedon top of each other due tolack of space.

A few metres away is theever-lively Charles Bridge,famous for the 30 statuesthat stand on it. The bridgewas the most important connectionbetween the PragueCastle and the Old Town.

Open to pedestrians only,there are plenty of streetmusicians and wares on sale-- jewellery, paintings andartists who'll paint your portraiton the spot. Keep asideone full day to visit thePrague Castle, which is situatedon a hill, with a tramtaking you up the windingroad. The largest ancient castlein the world, it haschurches, gardens, alleywaysand royal residences on itscampus. Watch the change ofguard at the castle whichnow houses the CzechPresident's office.

If pubbing is not yourscene, then the KrizikFountain Show is a good betin the evening or even theBlack Light Theater WOWShow. Or just hop in to thePalladium shopping mallwhich has 200 outlets and afood court that dishes outeven Asian specialities.

On the outskirts of the city,the Karlstejn castle ofCharles IV, accessed by ahorse cart (about 150 kronasper person) is a good daytrip. Frescoes, a rich historyand the famous chapel of StCross that safeguarded thecrown jewels of the HolyRoman Empire make thisvisit memorable.

How to get there?
Well connected by rail, the Czech capital has direct trains from Zurich, Munich and Vienna. You can also take a connecting flight from any of the major European cities. Fares start at R 35,000GOOD TO KNOW: Make sure to change your Euros to Kronas from a reliable bank. There are touts who promise to give you a good rate but try and avoid them as they dole out fake notes. 24 Kronas = 1 Euro

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