How Chinese food has taken over the Indian palate

Indian-Chinese food has stir-fried its way into our lives. But we’ve wasted too much time defining it by what it is not (‘it’s not authentic’) instead of what it is

I went last week to have dinner at The Duck and Rice, the long-awaited new venture from Alan Yau. You may have heard of Yau. He created Wagamama, Hakkasan, Yauatcha and many other ‘high-concept’ restaurants before selling them off and moving on to new ventures.

The Duck and Rice, not far from the first Yauatcha, in London’s Soho district, is a conversion of a pub formerly called The Endurance. Though not all London critics have liked it (Fay Maschler, the city’s most respected critic, normally a booster of Yau’s ventures, was underwhelmed), the place was full anyway the night I went.

Noodles