For Navroz this year, chefs are giving the traditional Parsi Bhonu a contemporary twist
As we celebrate Navroz today, chefs reinvent classic Parsi flavours with a modern twist, blending tradition with contemporary flair
A festival signifying new beginnings, religious fervour, and the spring equinox, Navroz is rooted in Zoroastrian traditions and is celebrated by the Parsi community in India. And as most merrymaking goes, food plays a central part in this festival. Delicacies like Patra ni Machhi, Sali Boti, Dhansak, Akoori and Chicken Farcha, to name a few, are mainstays at the table. As no meal is complete without something sweet, Mawa Ni Boi, Doodh Nu Puff, Mithu Dhai, Ravo, and Lagan nu Custard are relished.
These traditional dishes form the foundation of any celebratory Parsi meal. But now, chefs are taking some liberties with these crowd-pleasers, adding their own flair to the presentation and techniques while retaining the flavour.
An egg-cellent choice
At Gallops in Mumbai, head chef Yajush Malik serves up Akoori, a kind of creamy garlicky scrambled egg dish. Usually eaten with some kind of bread, Chef Yajush, who will be hosting a five-course Parsi wedding-style feast on Parsi New Year, prefers to load it onto flaky, crispy Khari. On the other hand, Chef Viraf Patel, Founder of OitO, Goa, says, “I’ve reimagined the Bharuchi Akoori and served it with sourdough toast. This contemporary take features raisin marmalade, roasted almonds, and crispy matchstick potatoes. It pays homage to Bharuch, a city in Gujarat famous for its farsan, a testament to how Parsis have seamlessly assimilated into local cultures.”
The fluffy eggs of the Bharuchi Akoori paired with a buttery brioche pav might sound like a Western interpretation, however, Chef Sanket Satare at JW Marriott Mumbai Juhu, Mumbai, served it with “green chilli thecha and crispy russet fingerling potatoes offers a delightful blend of flavours when you take a bite into it.”
Patra me a piece of that
A delicious parcel featuring fish marinated in green chutney and steamed in banana leaf, Patra Ni Maachi is a Parsi work of art. Low on aesthetic but high on flavour, any pescetarian will go crazy for this dish. However, Darius Madon, Executive Chef, Native Bombay and Banyan Tree Cafe, Mumbai, is making it vegetarian-friendly.
“It’s important for us to be able to share the diversity and flavours of our cuisine with as many people as we can, which is why we have a Patra Nu Paneer. We have taken fresh paneer, a favourite among Indians, and adapted it to the flavours and tastes of the Parsi cuisine,” says Chef Darius, adding, “Barring the fish, this dish encompasses everything that a Patra Nu needs to be - the fragrant green chutney, brown vinegar, banana leaf, and Parsi style ‘kachumbar’ of onion, tomato, coriander and good ol’ Parsi sirka (brown vinegar)”
Adding an Asian twist, Chef Vinamr Manocha, Jr Sous Chef at Vivanta Goa, Panaji, has turned the Patra Ni Macchi into Sushi. “The delicate fish fillets are marinated in the traditional coconut-coriander chutney. We roll it in sushi rice, wrap it in nori sheets or thin strips of banana leaf, and lightly steam it. It is served with a side of tamarind-soy dipping sauce, creating a bite-sized way to enjoy a Parsi classic.”
Dhansak all the way
While tradition will always remain, something you need to shake things up and Anshul Dhyani, Executive Chef, ITC Grand Central, Mumbai, agrees. “Parsi cuisine is known for its rich history and distinct flavours. While I’ve honoured the recipes, I want to explore new textures, flavours, and presentation styles. For instance, dhansak is a hearty Parsi curry which has meat, lentils and veggies. I’ve changed the cooking method, opting to cook it on a delicate low temperature, which stays true to the flavour we know and love.”
Chef Anurag Bainola, Executive Chef, La Estoria, Goa IHCL SeleQtions, has made a Dhansak Risotto, where continental comfort meets Parsi spice. “Dhansak is served with caramelized brown rice, so I thought, why not transform it into creamy risotto? The arborio rice is cooked slowly in spiced lentil stock with tender chunks of lamb and vegetables. I finish it with a touch of garam masala and caramelized onions, garnish with micro greens and crispy fried shallots,” he says, explaining that this version retains Dhansak’s bold flavours but delivers it in a way that’s fit for fine dining.
Throwing in a wild card
Taking inspiration from the Parsi salli boti, Chef Somnath Rakesh, Executive Chef, Taj Holiday Village Resort & Spa, Goa, has created a taco. “Salli Boti is a rich Parsi mutton curry served with crispy potato straws aka salli. I have added a Mexican feel, with slow-cooked, spiced mutton boti stuffed in soft shell tacos and topped with salli, pickled onions, and a drizzle of spicy crema. The contrast of textures makes it a fantastic appetizer.”
Persian food comes from a long history and is packed with aromatic spices, fresh herbs, and bold flavours. Sajid Patel, executive chef, Sheraton Grand Bangalore Hotel, Bengaluru says, “Chefs are giving traditional Parsi food modern twists by blending native Persian ingredients with international tastes, like making a saffron-flavoured risotto or tahdig-crusted salmon. You can make a plant-based Parsi Bhonu with like vegan kuku sabzi or making sabzi polo with quinoa and roasted vegetables.”
A sweet ending
There are several Parsi desserts that one can enjoy on Navroz, however, the wedding custard aka Lagan Nu Custard is iconic. “I’ve incorporated Zereshk berries from Iran and a delicate Caroli tuile in my Brioche Lagan Nu Custard. This version brings a refined elegance to a dish that holds deep sentimental value in every Parsi household,” he says.
For his version of the Parsi Mittho Dahi, a sweet curd, often served with Parsi sev, Chef Sanket says, “We’ve worked on a lemongrass-infused Panna Cotta, which is an explosion of flavours and closely replicates the creaminess that is the best part of the Mithu Dhai.”
