The traditional flavours of Makar Sankranti
Chefs from four Indian states fish out their most beloved food memories and traditions associated with Makar Sankranti
India is a nation where no festival can be considered truly complete without the inclusion of food. Makar Sankranti, in particular, is a time when the tantalizing aroma of traditional delicacies from various regions permeates the air in every household. Chefs from four Indian states fish out their most beloved food memories and traditions associated with Makar Sankranti:
PUNJAB
“My favourite part of celebrating Lohri was helping my mum and dad prepare sarson ka saag and makai ki roti,” recalls two-time Michelin-star chef Atul Kochhar, adding, “We would work together, peeling peanuts and getting fresh sugarcane juice from the local juice wala for the traditional ganne ke ras ki kheer (rice pudding made with sugarcane juice). It’s the authentic kheer made in Punjabi households on Lohri.”
WEST BENGAL
“My family heritage is a blend of East Bengal and West Bengal, resulting in a delightful fusion of flavours. Growing up, I had the pleasure of indulging in delicacies such as puli pithe and moya,” chef Sabyasachi Gorai fondly recalls, before rattling off names of desserts that Bengalis savour during Poush Sankranti — from nolen gurer payesh and nolen gurer roshogolla to patishapta. “During this season, my grandmother would procure nolen gur, making it an integral part of our family’s cherished culinary traditions,” he adds.
MAHARASHTRA
Bhogichi bhaji, a quintessentially Maharashtrian veggie curry that incorporates freshly harvested winter vegetables, is relished during Makar Sankranti. “To prepare this bhaji, Maharashtrians, including myself, combine a medley of winter vegetables with a creamy and rich paste. This paste is infused with the nutty flavours of coconut, peanuts and sesame seeds, and tamarind pulp and jaggery help balance the flavours. Other traditional delights enjoyed on Makar Sankranti are tilgul ladoo and puran poli,” shares chef Reetu Uday Kugaji.
BIHAR
The age-old tradition of marking the festival by eating khichdi reigns supreme in eastern India. Ashish Singh, corporate chef at Dhansoo Cafe, Gurugram, tells us, “My mother would wake all of us up early and make offerings of sesame seeds to the Sun. On this day, it is customary for Bihari families to indulge in dahi chooda (yoghurt with flattened rice). I also remember helping my mother in the kitchen make khichdi and terva (pakodas).”
