The rise of the crushed silk in the modern time
Crushed silk, rooted in ancient traditions, has become a favorite among contemporary designers for its unique texture and lightweight properties.
Silk has always been associated with luxury and royalty, but recently, a particular variation—crushed silk—has made its way into the limelight. Silk has its early traces in China, where it was first cultivated over 5,000 years ago. However, the crushing of silk fabric originated in the Indus Valley of South Asia and is similar to the Japanese Shibori technique. The process involves wetting, pleating, and binding fabric with string to create crinkly undulations.
The early traces
The crinkling effect was initially an unintended result of the fabric’s natural wear over time, particularly in regions with high humidity. However, artisans in India and Persia embraced this texture deliberately, using hand-pleating and heat treatments to achieve a distinctive wrinkled look.
Even during the Mughal era, crushed silk became a symbol of royalty in India being used in making anarkalis, dupattas, and even turbans. The fabric was loved for its lightweight and rich appeal. Skip to modern times, silk has gained immense popularity, especially among designers like Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla who have incorporated this fabric into garments like lehengas, kurtis, and saris, giving it a more modern feel and finesse. “What makes it stand out the most is that it retains the richness and softness of silk, but with a more relaxed drape. It's like a fabric that possesses a personality of its own. The silk is luxurious yet easygoing which serves well for both structured and flamboyant dresses,” shares designer Khushi Shah, founder of Shanti Banaras.
The art of making crushed silk
Crushed silk is created through a special heat-setting process, where the fabric is twisted and treated to maintain its crinkled texture. Traditional methods involved hand-crushing and natural starching but today, designers use advanced textile treatments to make the crinkle effect more durable and long-lasting.
“Pure silk has a natural element of starch in it and it is this very detail that enables the crushed fabric to retain its texture. We have always and only used the purest of all materials for our creations. We adore the indulgence of Khadi silk, Mysorechiffons, crepe de chines and Tussar silks of Bihar, and even introduced our crushed technique in Bandhani and Churi sleeves as well. This season, we have revisited the trails of our crushed silk fantasy to bring even more splendour to our designs,” explain duo designers Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla.
The modern take
Its lightweight nature and easy-to-maintain texture make it a favourite for travel-friendly outfits. With a growing love for textured fabrics, designers are embracing crushed silk for its organic yet refined look. “While traditionally used in flowy silhouettes, designers now use it for structured cuts, layering, and embellishments like tonal embroidery and crystals to add depth and dimension,” says designer Rashi Kapoor.
The fabric’s appeal has also caught the attention of Bollywood with actors like Sonam Kapoor, Bhumi Pednekar, and Tabu have been spotted in crushed silk lehengas, anarkalis and gowns.
The styling
With its very versatile nature and distinct look, the fabric naturally adapts to flowy, draped styles. “It drapes beautifully in sarees, lehengas, and anarkalis, while also adding texture to jackets, blouses, and corseted styles,” explains designer Aarushi Katiyar adding, “Particular colours like rich and deep tones and muted pastels highlight its sheen. Subtle embroidery, beadwork, and layering with sheer fabrics enhance its beauty, complementing crushed silk best.”