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Sea of delights

From Istanbul to Rome for a 10-day cruise in the Mediterranean was like moving onto a floating city. Ports of call made the cruise more interesting, writes MN Batra.

Published on: Jul 20, 2006, 01:05:00 IST
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During World War II, while I was posted in Tehran with the 12th Indian Division, I had the opportunity to travel along the southern coast of the Caspian Sea, then under Russian administrative control. Since that time, I had always hoped that one day I would cruise along the Bosphorous to the Black Sea. This opportunity came recently on a visit to Istanbul.

HT Image
HT Image

From the window of my hotel, I could see the Ataturk bridge -- a marvellous feat of engineering linking Europe with Asia. The famous Blue Mosque, silhouetted against the sunset, looked even better than the postcards which have lured tourists to this ancient yet modern city. During a cruise on the Bosphorous, castles of Sultans of the Ottoman empire were pointed out as were the villas of the rich and famous. As we drifted past the Military School, the guide told us that President Musharraf was once a cadet at this institution.

The armed forces -- particularly the army -- do not seem to have problems of officer recruitment. The post-retirement benefits are much better than those in India. All officers of the rank of General are referred to as Pashas since the days of Mustafa Kamal Ataturk, the founder of the Republic and the greatest Pasha ever. Alas, there was little time to linger over cups of strong Turkish coffee or indulge in a traditional Turkish bath.

From Istanbul to Rome for a 10-day cruise in the Mediterranean was like moving onto a floating city. Ports of call made the cruise more interesting. For me, the beautiful rock-like Greek islands of Mykonas and Santorini speckled with traditional whitewashed houses and blue-domed churches, took top honours. Most passengers were Americans, many with new companions and elderly ladies who had outlived their life partners. There was one Sikh couple from London. And then there were the waiters -- most of whom were from Goa. Did they give us ‘Indians’ preferential treatment? But, of course!

But it may not always be advisable to explore the float without, ahem, a guide. Were I guided, would I have found myself on the highest deck ready to enjoy a marvellous view? No, because loud screams hailed my arrival as I walked into the small enclosure with reclining chairs for sun-bathing. A dozen ladies pointed to a notice board which read ‘Topless Deck -- Ladies Only’. Completely outgunned, the Pasha from India shut his eyes and beat a hasty retreat.

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