Beyond the white: Barbora Krejcikova, Serena Williams to Leela Row Dayal; evolution of women's tennis dress at Wimbledon

Wimbledon's strict all-white dress code has evolved with fashion trends and personal touches over the decades. Here's a look at its evolution over the years.

Wimbledon, also known as The Wimbledon Championships, is the oldest and the most prestigious tennis tournament. Started in 1877 and organised by the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club in Wimbledon, London, this hallowed green court is a legend-maker. Wimbledon is the only Grand Slam still played on grass courts. Spanning across generations and epochs, people worldwide continue to tune in to the games, watching with bated breath as they witness the dawn of new tennis legends who become household names. Wimbledon has a particular dress code that persists to this day.

Barbora Krejcikova, Serena Williams to Leela Row Dayal; evolution of women's tennis dress at Wimbledon.

Wimbledon’s dress code stood the test of time. The long-standing dress code rule requires all players to be clad in all-white. And white means pure white, no off-white or cream. The monochrome ensemble must be devoid of any colour. The only exception is a single trim of colour, with a width restricted to 1 cm around the neckline and outside seams of skirts and tracksuits. However, the players didn’t let the regular white water down their style, nor did they allow their fashion sense to get confined within that 1 cm width. They added their twist, all the while adhering to the rule. Here's how the Wimbledon women's fashion evolved.

Late 1890s- early 1910s

Charlotte Cooper and Dorothea Lambert Chambers in ruffle-sleeved shirts and ankle-length skirts.

The late 1890s and early 1900s saw the rise of record-breaking women who blazed trails during a time of ankle-length full skirts, tight petticoats, stockings, puffy sleeves, and high collars. The court fashion mirrored the Edwardian era fashion. Charlotte Cooper, also known as Chattie Cooper, won five singles titles at Wimbledon. Another iconic tennis player from this era was Dorothea Lambert Chambers, who won seven times between 1903 and 1914 while wearing corsets and petticoats. Limited due to the social norms and the orthodox approach of that time, women didn’t have the agency to modify their dress for better mobility.

 

1920s

Suzanne Lenglen was one of the first to eschew corset from tennis attire.

In the 1920s, American women gained the right to vote after passing the 19th Amendment. This victory inspired women to defy the traditional gender roles and normative dress codes for women. French tennis player Suzanne Lenglen played in a knee-length sleeveless white dress, abandoning the use of a corset. This marked a milestone in providing women with a more airy and breathable uniform for the game. With the roaring twenties and flapper style in trend, Suzanne also sported a bandana, highlighting the influence of fashion trends on Wimbledon uniforms.

 

1930s

Leela Row Dayal wore loose shots.

The Wimbledon women’s attire became more practical for ease of movement, discarding confining long skirts. This era introduced practical shorts to enhance mobility during the game. In 1932, for the first time, women tennis player Helen Austin wore shorts instead of the usual full-length trousers or dresses. This marked a shift from full-length skirts. The women's tennis fashion of the 1930s embraced masculine styles such as tailored shorts and polo-neck shirts. In 1934, the first Indian woman, Leela Row Dayal, embodied this when she won the singles title wearing shorts.

 

1940s

1940s was all about lace, frills and short skirts.

The 1940s court uniform reminded us that femininity and comfort can go hand in hand. This hyper-feminine fashion on the court symbolized a return to elegant women’s clothing after the wartime fashion of the 1940s. The era featured exquisite satin, ruffles, and lace. American tennis player Gertrude Moran turned heads in a short skirt above the knee and floral lace shorts underneath.

 

1950s

Althea Gibson, first black woman to win Wimbledon.

The 1950s were all about cardigans, pleated and flared skirts, and collared t-shirts. Althea Gibson, the first black woman to win Wimbledon in 1957, wore a pleated skirt and a shirt. This decade also witnessed cinched waists with embellished details, proving that white attire shouldn't be boring. Maureen Connolly styled her cardigan with blue buttons and a pleated skirt.

 

1960s

Lea Pericoli wore skirts with interesting hemline designs.

Styling was amped up with sleeveless tops and flowy, shorter skirts with chic hemlines. Italian tennis player Lea Pericoli set trends with her ruffled, rose-petal skirt hemline designed by Teddy Tinling. She demonstrated how even sportswear can be an iconic fashion statement.

1970s

Maria Navratilova and Linda Siegel stormed 70s with daring touches.

Court fashion soared to risqué levels as hemlines continued to rise and necklines dipped. The button-down dress was all the buzz in the 70s. Maria Navratilova won Wimbledon in a button-down dress with pressed collars, while Linda Siegel stunned in a halter-neck dress with a plunging neckline.

 

1980s

Tracy Austin and Anne White demonstrated some iconic fashion on the green court.

Court fashion spruced up regular whites in the 1980s with form-fitting sportswear. Tracy Austin popularised flattering silhouettes, while Anne White's skin-tight bodysuit at the 1985 Wimbledon prompted a warning from officials, to never wear that again.

 

1990s

Stephi Graph, the iconic tennis player. popularised baggy tops and loose shorts.

Oversized and relaxed sportswear defined 90s Wimbledon court fashion. The body-fitting tight outfits fizzled out, making way for baggy shirts and shorts. Short tennis skirts were also paired with oversized tops. Stephi Graph championed this breezy, oversized outfit as she played and won seven Wimbledon titles.

2000s

Maria Sharapova wore dresses with v-necklines and delicate sheer designs on skirts and bodices.

Fashion redefined sportswear, pushing boundaries for bolder styles with slim straps, tennis dresses and hemline slits. Maria Sharapova wore slim-fitted racer-back dresses with plunging necklines and accessorised with pendants and lace designs around her dress' midriff. Anna Kournikova wore a midriff-baring dress, stirring controversy at Wimbledon in 2002.

2010s

Serena Williams was a fashion icon, both on and off the court.(@Wimbledon )

From tiered skirts to fringe skirts with sculpted bodies to one-sleeved dresses and tasselled hemlines, the 2010s beckoned an era of sleek fashion on the grass court. The fashion range of the William sisters- Serena and Venus, was impeccable. Here, style was combined with functionality.

 

2020s

 

Barbora Krejcikova in a loose full-sleeved shirt with a tennis skirt and a visor, keeping things cool and relaxed.

Today, the court sees relaxed yet classy styles with streamlined dresses offering technical benefits like cooling, UV protection, and moisture absorption. Barbora Krejcikova one of the contemporary tennis players, knows how to ace this minimalistic, relaxed look. Traditional pleated skirts remain popular, adding subtle accents of colour to enhance outfits. It's a minimalist and subtler approach compared to previous decades, accentuating comfort with understated elegance.