Parsi New Year: Mumbai’s bhonu paradise is a foodies delight

In celebration of Nowruz today, we look at some of the last vestiges of the Parsi eateries in the city

As you walk down the lanes of South Mumbai (SoBo), you will see the evidence of the hands of time that have moved by leaps and bounds. Tall skyrises dwarf the older structures that are filled with character but need a lot of work. However, in these lanes, you are bound in find areas that remain untouched by time. As we celebrate, Nowroz, Navroz or simply Parsi New Year, today, we speak to the owners of some of the most iconic Parsi eateries in Mumbai on how they continue to thrive.

Parsi New Year: Mumbai’s bhonu paradise is a foodies delight

Another generation of students find a place at Kyani & Co.

Kyani & Co., Marine Lines

Established in 1904, Kyani’s as it is known in common parlance, sits at the crossroads of Dhobi Talao. Crossroads were previously thought to be unauspicious by many barring the Parsi community, who began to set up most of their shops in such areas. Farokh Aflatoon Shokri is the second generation to manage Kyani & Co and says, “The Zoroastrians never looked at it that way. Instead, we saw these corner stores as being the important points of the city of Mumbai and moved into such shops.” Like most Parsi eateries, Shokri says they do not have one special clientele as far as the business goes, “we cater to A to Z segments of society”.Kyani’s is famous for their caramel custard, kheema pav and raspberry soda but Shokri laments, “There used to be 350 Irani outlets at one point in time in Mumbai but it has come down to around 25, so you can understand the pace at which these outlets are closed down.” Ask what is the secret to having a thriving Parsi business and he says - “product quality, service and a competitive price.”

Time stands still at Yazdani Bakery & Restaurant

Yazdani Bakery & Restaurant, Fort

Currently run by the third generation, Yazdani Bakery & Restaurant started as a bread supplier to the restaurants in the area and slowly became the famous bakery it is today. With two wood fire ovens that have continued running since it was established in 1950, the bakery is famous for its bun maska, brune maska and khari biscuits. Their bun maska uses butter, sultanas and raisins instead of tooti-fruti and always has people queuing up for it. Zyros Zend, one of the four partners in this family-run establishment, says, “With two fire temples at either side of the bakery, we are blessed. My grandfather started the bakery and we still use those same recipes today. Nothing has changed. Nostalgia sells and we have no intention of changing anything about the place. People from all strata come here and sit down together to eat. We want them all to enjoy their cup of Iranian chai and bun maska peacefully and feel at home.” With his daughters geared up to take over the business in the future, Zend says, “Bun maska is in their blood as much as it is in mine. They can add their own unique items to the menu like I did with my Christmas rum plum cake and Apple pies, but changing the menu is out of the question.”

The feeling of nostalgia is heavy at Sassanian

Sassanian, Marine Lines

Started in 1913, Sassanian is known for its reasonably priced meals. However, this restaurant wasn’t always selling its famous kheema pav and bread pudding. Meheraban Kola, one of the three partners who managed this Paris eatery, says, “You will see that most Parsi-owned shops are near a fire temple and they would open the shop by five o’clock in the morning and close it at 11 o’clock at night. Sassanian was first like a departmental store. We used to sell omelettes, bun maska, Iranian chai, khari and biscuits.” From 1997 onwards, they started the bakery section and would sell chicken and mutton puffs, along with cakes, cookies and khari biscuits. In 2000, kheema pav and masoor dal with two pavs sold for for ₹5 was added to the menu. Kola says, “We sold to everyone from taxi wallas to those who were well off. There was no differentiation.” Now the menu consists of breakfast items, Parsi Bhonu like sali chicken, dhansak, brown rice and more, along with sizzlers, mawa cake, lagan nu custard and bread pudding.