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British climber, 51, sets record with 19th Everest ascent — most ever by a non-Sherpa

BySimran Singh
May 19, 2025 09:45 AM IST

A British mountaineer has reached the summit of Mount Everest for the 19th time, breaking his own record for the most ascents by a non-Sherpa climber.

British mountaineer Kenton Cool has climbed Mount Everest for the 19th time, setting a new record for the highest number of ascents by a non-Sherpa. The 51-year-old reached the summit of the 8,849-metre (29,000-feet) peak on Sunday at 11:00am local time (04:15 GMT), alongside Nepali Sherpa Dorji Gyaljen.

He first climbed the summit of Everest in 2004 and has returned almost every year since.(Instagram/@himguides)
He first climbed the summit of Everest in 2004 and has returned almost every year since.(Instagram/@himguides)

Cool first summited Everest in 2004 and has returned to the mountain nearly every year since. His climbing partner, Gyaljen, also achieved a milestone with his 23rd successful ascent of Everest.

The overall record for the most Everest summits is held by Nepali Sherpa Kami Rita, who has reached the top 30 times and is currently on the mountain attempting to extend his record further.

Cool’s achievement comes during a grim week on Everest, which has already claimed the lives of at least two climbers, Subrata Ghosh from India and Philipp “PJ” Santiago II from the Philippines.

‘I’m really surprised…’

Despite the attention surrounding his record, Cool has often played it down. After his 16th climb in 2022, he remarked, “I’m really surprised by the interest… considering that so many of the sherpas have so many more ascents,” in an interview with AFP.

Just four days before this year’s summit, Cool shared an update on Instagram saying he “finally [had] a positive forecast” that gave him the green light to make the attempt. He added, “Let’s hope that we manage to thread the needle with regard to numbers of climbers and we have a safe and enjoyable time up high.”

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His accomplishment has been widely celebrated by fellow mountaineers. American climber Adrian Ballinger, who is currently leading a team on Everest, told Reuters, “Mr Cool is a great person to share stories from two decades on the mountain. His experience, charisma, and strength make him a valuable part of the Everest community.”

Jordanian mountaineer Mostafa Salameh also praised the British climber, writing, “Amazing, Kenton.” Salameh is one of only 20 people to have climbed the highest peaks on all seven continents and reached both the North and South Poles.

Apart from his personal expeditions, Cool is a well-known mountain guide and has led several prominent climbs, including one with British explorer Sir Ranulph Fiennes.

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