Charming Londoners with chicken makhanis

With no investor backing her, and food critics ignoring her, Romy Gill overcame all odds to become the first Indian woman chef to open a restaurant in Britain

Romy Gill might be lauded as the first Indian woman chef to open a restaurant in the UK. She might have recently joined the ranks of British luminaries like Rod Stewart and Jamie Oliver when she was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire by the Queen. But if she hadn’t had passion and determination, she’d never have made it to these accolades. That’s because she couldn’t even get an investor to back her when she wanted to start her restaurant in Thornbury, Bristol.

Romy Gill’s gender as well as ethnic background proved to be big deterrents

“I didn’t have a godfather in the industry, which is why I help women by hiring only women as staff”

“I opened my restaurant five years ago, but before that I had to follow certain criteria,” she says. “The building is Grade 2 listed, so the council for planning took three-and-a-half years to say yes to convert it into a restaurant! The builders took nine months to complete it. Three banks refused me a loan before NatWest Bank stepped up. Anyone in their right mind would have given up.”

It didn’t help that she’s a woman from a non-UK ethnic background, with no restaurant experience. “Setting up took so long that sometimes I had doubts (if it ever would) and it puts your relationships in testing waters. I have grown so old in five years – the stress of staffing and day to day challenges of running the restaurant have not been easy at all,” she says.

Bring in the critics

Romy moved to England at the age of 21 with her would-be husband. Though she had no formal training in the kitchen, she dreamed of opening a restaurant someday. She tackled possible insecurities by inviting friends and neighbours to her house to try her food (her Polish postman loved her samosas!), then starting a home catering company, and then finally working at Michelin star restaurants just for the experience. But when Romy’s Kitchen finally opened in 2013, Romy couldn’t sit back on her laurels – oh, no! She had an altogether new set of problems to deal with.

All dishes served by Romy have been inspired by her mother’s cooking

“Being a self-taught chef outside London, for me to convince chefs and food critics that I started the restaurant because I love cooking and want to feed people wasn’t easy,” she says. “I had to prove that I actually do cook in the kitchen and not just stand there and take all the credit. Still, none of the food critics came to write about me or the food since I was not in Bristol city centre or London. I was really upset.”

So she decided to go to the critics instead. “I started my pop up in Carousel London. Grace Dent (the well-known food columnist) came to my pop up, then came to my restaurant unannounced, and made an effort to see the food I served,” smiles Romy. “It has not been an easy journey, which is why I have immense respect for all male and female chefs. I didn’t have a godfather in the industry, which is why I help women in the industry today by hiring only women as staff.”

Royal success

A mecca for Indian ghar ka khaana, Romy’s Kitchen is famous for its organic produce and dishes like chicken makhanis, maacher jhol, Amritsari gurnard and chilly paneer roll that have been inspired by her mother’s cooking. “Growing up in West Bengal in a Punjabi family, food played a huge part in our house,” says Romy. “My mum’s life revolved around looking after and cooking delicious food for the family and our friends. My mum still makes the best parathas and dad always cooked on and off while I sat in the kitchen.”

The council for planning took three-and-a-half years to say yes to the restaurant

Despite this culinary background, Romy is yet to master making the simple karah prashaad that you get in gurdwaras. “My parents taught me that food brings people together. Rich or poor, we all cook to look after ourselves and our families.”

When she received the letter from the Queen, she mistook it for yet another bill. “My daughter came from school, saw the stamp and opened it – after reading the letter she started screaming. I still couldn’t believe it, so I rang the cabinet office three times just to make sure it was for me and every time they said, yes!” she laughs.

Romy’s Kitchen is famous for its ghar ka khaana and organic produce

Often making a trip to Mumbai to run in the marathon or catch up with friends, Romy is also busy writing a book. “Saransh Goila ka butter chicken is the best takeaway place, and I love going to Bombay Canteen and Oh! Calcutta. I just go with the flow, wherever anyone takes me to eat. Food just makes me happy.”

From HT Brunch, July 8, 2018

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