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Baisakhi: The festival of food and gratitude

By, New Delhi
Apr 11, 2021 09:45 AM IST

An ode to mother nature, Baisakhi is a spring harvest festival, often commemorated with food, love and kindness

Festivals are incomplete without food. Preparing an exquisite menu for the guests and exchange of goodies is a custom for Indians, be it during Holi, Diwali, Dussehra or seasonal festivals such as Baisakhi. Majorly, celebrated in north India, Baisakhi marks the beginning of the New Year for the Sikh community and Punjabis. The day holds a special importance for farmers, as it marks the time of harvest of rabi (winter) crops. The festival is celebrated throughout the country with different names.

Kada Prashad loved by one and all is distributed in gurudwaras.
Kada Prashad loved by one and all is distributed in gurudwaras.

“Farmers celebrate this day by thanking mother earth for good harvest. In Punjab, they wear new clothes and visit gurdwara. Gifts are exchanged and ‘Guru ka langar’ is organised where everyone in the community would come together and share a meal. Kada prashad is distributed in gurdwaras and dishes such as sarson ka saag, makki ki roti, maa ki dal (kaali dal), meethe peele chawal are cooked,” says chef Sanjay Vij, executive chef, Vivanta Surajkund.

Pindi Chole recipe needs patience and perfect measurement of spices.
Pindi Chole recipe needs patience and perfect measurement of spices.

However, with time, some traditional recipes have been lost in transition. “The tragedy of partition not only affected the people but also the cuisine. Dishes like chaati da kukkad, ghee ki sabji, roh (sugarcane juice) di kheer, alsi pinni, among others, never travelled to India and were lost with time. Probably because there was no scripted record for these dishes and were mostly family heirloom dishes,” shares Vij.

Indeed, efforts are being made to reintroduce some of these delicacies during this festive period. With such revival in mind, Ikk Punjab restaurant in Delhi has organised a food festival this Baisakhi. “There were lots of dishes which were common in undivided Punjab but since have disappeared. Lahori kukkadi chargha, panner multani rahra masala, mottiyan wali makki, adraki gobhi masala and kunna gosht were popular pre-partition but not anymore. We want to make people aware about them this year,” says Naresh Kotwal, chef from the restaurant.

Culinary expert and chef Reetu Uday Kugaji, feels that revival of such dishes has already been happening over the years. “Thanks to the chefs and food lovers, some of them are already popular. Phulkari pulao that resembles phulkari art is one of them. Prepared with four types of fragrant rice, it’s a vibrant recipe,” shares Kugaji.

Meethi Lassi by chef Reetu Uday Kugaji is a perfect drink for summers.
Meethi Lassi by chef Reetu Uday Kugaji is a perfect drink for summers.

Elaborating on her food recommendation for the festival she adds, “Gur da halwa, chawal di kheer, badam di kheer, kesari phirni, langar wali dal, pakode wali punjabi kadhi with chawal, pindi chole and mango lassi are dishes one should try during this festival.”

On this day, people also dress up in shades of yellow and orange. “The same influence can be seen in their food. If you are in Punjab around this time kadhi pakoda with steamed rice, meethe peele chawal, maa ki daal, meetha gujiya is something that shouldn’t be missed. I look forward to my favourite fresh green chana curry which is prepared during this time of the year,” says chef Tanvi Goswami, who reminisces her childhood memories of travelling to Jammu to celebrate the festival of Baisakhi.

“I remember going to a canal in Jammu to take a dip with my other siblings, followed by feasting on delicious delicacies cooked by my mother and aunts. Over time, things change, everyone is busy in their own lives and now the festival is a low-key affair,” she says. With pandemic making this year’s celebration even more intimate, you can also try cooking some of these delectable delicacies at your home and celebrate Baisakhi with your loved ones, in true traditional manner.

Recipe

LAHORI KUKKADI CHARGHA

Ingredients

• Chicken about 1.5 to 2 kg with skin removed and cuts added.

• 1 egg

• 2 tbsp of yogurt

• 1 tbsp of garlic ginger paste

1 tsp of turmeric powder

2 tsp of red chili powder

2 tsp of cumin powder

1 tsp of whole spice powder (garam masala)

3 tbsp of lemon

1 tsp chat masala

1 tsp green cardamom powder (chotielaichi powder)

2 tsp salt

A pinch of nutmeg powder

A pinch of red food color

Oil for frying

Instructions

Skin a whole chicken and clean it. Add deep horizontal cuts. Treat it with 1/2 cup of vinegar and let it sit in vinegar for 10 to 15 mins. Use a paper towel to pat the chicken dry.

In a bowl, add all the ingredients for marinade and mix well. Coat the chicken with marinade. Cover it let it sit in the fridge for 8 hours.

Bring out it out and let it sit out for 30 mins before cooking. Tie the legs of the chicken together with a thread. And use toothpicks to pin the wings to the body.

In a deep pot, add about 1/4 cup of oil and 3 to 4 onions cut up in halves. Use a heavy bottom pot.

Place your chicken on top of the onions. Cover the pot with a lid. Steam the chicken at high heat for 5 mins and then at medium to low heat for another 25 mins.

Remove the chicken from the pot and deep fry it in hot oil for 6 mins on each side or until it looks crispy golden on each side. Make sure the oil level covers half of the chicken while you fry it.

Dish out on a plate and sprinkle some more chat masala and lemon juice on top of it generously. Serve with Mint chutney.

Recipe by chef Naresh Kotwal

Author tweets @ruchikagarg271

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