Trending: On the global ramp
The mood was upbeat, the clothes celebratory, the designs new. From jewel tones and polka dots, to turtlenecks and loose tailored outfits, internationally, fashion was wearable and fun. Go ahead. Look. Choose.Updated: Sep 24, 2011 18:06 IST
What neons were to this Summer, jewel tones are to this Winter. In Summer, the entry of bright neons was a clear indication that the recession-inspired depression of greys and browns was finally over. And that mood hasn’t changed.
This season, rich jewel shades dominated most designers’ collections, including Christopher Kane, Diane von Furstenberg, Chanel, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Emilio Pucci, Carolina Herrera, Ralph Lauren, Gucci, Brioni and even Christian Louboutin. Dresses, jackets, skirts, denims and even accessories were flaunted in emerald green, scarlet ruby, blue turquoise, topaz yellow, purple amethyst – all colours signifying opulence. If you’ve got it, show it.
Tip: There’s rich and there’s silly. If you’re going jewel, wear only one colour at a time.
The wacky, colourful polkas of the ’60s are back. But this time, they are sombre, elegant and very classic chic.
Polka dots are demure and feminine in white or black. Marc Jacobs had tiny dots on jackets, Stella McCartney had sheer polka dresses, Diane von Furstenberg, Yves Saint Laurent and even Gucci did the polka.
Tip: Never wear polkas on polkas. Stick to one kind.
If hemlines (a useful barometer of the state of the West’s economy) are to be believed, there is utter chaos in the world. This Winter, skirts of all lengths (the youthful mini, knee-level pencil, mid-calf midi and toe-touching maxi) and kinds (pleated, flouncy, plain, printed, A-line, fitted, high-waisted, long with thigh-high slits) are dominating the imaginations of designers. At Christian Dior, Ted Baker, Tom Ford and Alexander McQueen’s shows, skirts made a comeback, replacing dresses. Chloe gave the pencil skirt a funky leather makeover.
Tip: Pair flouncy with fitted and soften the leather and fitted skirts’ austere look with soft blouses. Wear the trendy thin belt.
Last season the turtleneck made a blink-and-you-miss-it appearance on the runways, but this time the trend is here to stay. Designers Roberto Cavalli, Maison Martin Margiela, Calvin Klein and Hermès all had turtlenecks in their collections. They mainly layered them beneath smart blazers and classic suit coats, overcoats and leather jackets. As with everything else in fashion this year, the turtlenecks went from staid and safe blacks, greys and blues to becoming statement shades.
Tip: Avoid heavy knit turtlenecks (though these are trendy too) if you are not skinny. They’ll just bulk you up. Opt for thin cashmeres or knits that will allow you to slip on a blazer, overcoat or even a denim jacket. Turtlenecks have a formal appeal. You can also wear them with a suit and leave out the tie.
This is great news for all those who didn’t know what to do with with those uber tight, crotch hugging skinnies that hogged the limelight until now. And also for those who, under duress, were about to succumb to the pressures of the naturally slim and lean. The skinnies are still hot, but a parallel trend of loose tailoring and loose pants was seen on the ramps. Designers experimented with pants fitted at the waist, relaxed at the thighs and crotch, and pleated. Designers Dolce & Gabbana showed loose pants, Vivienne Westwood had pleated pants, and Jill Sander, Ermanno Scervino and Hermès had variations of the silhouette.
Tip: This is a versatile trend and one that would suit most body types. These pants work great with a full-sleeved body hugging
sweatshirt as well as with a loose plaid coat. Wear a belt to add definition to your silhouette.
It's been a favourite fabric with the designers for women’s wear, but this season a whole lot of them used velvet in their men’s collections too. Velvet suits, sports jackets and a classic coat in the fabric were showcased by Dolce & Gabbana, Corneliani, Alexander McQueen, Etro, Tom Ford, Bottega Veneta, Cavalli, Gucci and Lanvin. While the classic greys and blacks were evident, there were also the new rich greens, burgundys, maroons and deep blues.
Tip: A velvet suit (as shown in the pic) is not an everyone can try option. A smartly tailored velvet jacket is safer.
From HT Brunch, September 25
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First Published: Sep 24, 2011 15:49 IST