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Men’s style and grooming by Yatan Ahluwalia: Inside out
It’s not just what you wear on top that matters! Here’s everything that you need to know about innerwear as well as underwear
Decoding the lead look
Hair: The undercut – short on the sides and left long on top with strands falling over the forehead and sides.
Brows: Defined and narrow.
Face: Good skin with a heavy stubble and thicker growth around the lips and on the chin.
Lips: Buffed, clean, and fresh.
Others: Tattoos on the arms, a very chiselled and defined body and white mid length cotton underwear.
Undershirts
Undershirts or vests don’t just absorb sweat but also help give the upper body its shape and form. Some styles even give you a better posture and therefore a better stance. I suggest you wear vests if you have love handles or some excessive weight to hide and conceal.
Styles
Tank tops: These are the most popular sleeveless vests and are normally white in colour with a round neck and sometimes a square cut. They are made with soft, breathable cotton and allow plenty of ventilation, making them ideal to wear in summer as well as through the year.
Crewnecks: Their ‘T’ shaped cut and high round necks make them compatible with formal shirts and if you sweat excessively under the arms or if you have chest hair that needs to be hidden. Pick plain and solids, over printed styles, and light colours over darker ones.
Cut sleeve vests: This v – neck undershirt was traditionally worn under casual shirts but has (of late) become more popular as outerwear to be worn at the gym or as casual or loungewear.
Sports vests: They are normally dual coloured or printed, have a high back and a low cut on the front. They are made with slightly stretchable fabrics and look best when worn on their own than under a top, shirt or jacket.
Style Tip: Not all vests need to be worn as innerwear. Sports vests, tank tops and cut sleeve vests can also be won on their own.
Underwear
Your underwear should be fuss free, comfortable and look just as good as it feels. When you get undressed, most people will judge you by the kind of underwear you wear and how well maintained and clean you keep it.
Styles
Briefs: Are the conventional men’s underwear. They cover the body from the waist to the top of the thigh and have either an overlap fly or a contour pouch.
Boxers: Originated from shorts worn by boxers. The traditional boxer is a full rise, cut short with a 3” inseam. It loosely covers the waist and ends just above the knee.
Trunks: Resemble men’s swimwear from the 1950’s and is like a boxer brief but has a much shorter leg length and clings close to the skin.
Sports briefs: Are an alternative to an athletic supporter and ideal for lifting weights in the gym or while carrying heavy equipment. They have a front cup and a back panel, but the sides are nothing more than an elastic waistband.
Mid briefs: Rise higher than a standard brief. They should be worn with jeans or other casual lowers and allow easy leg movement.
Jock straps: Jockstraps are ideal for outdoor sports or while hiking, mountaineering, and biking. A jock strap consists of a wide elastic waistband with a support pouch that holds a (impact resistant) protective cup to protect the testicles from injury and two straps that extend from the base of the pouch around your (rear) cheeks to the sides of the waistband.
Strings: Are a lot more popular than you think. This style of underwear offers the least amount of coverage and the maximum ‘exposure’. The leg openings go all the way up to the elastic waistband, which is (normally) a string style connecting the front and back panels together.
Shapes and body types
What works on who:
G-strings: Best on an athletic built or a filled-out body.
Mid length: Suitable for average and wide body frames.
High cut: Looks best on a lean body frame or all body types.
Boxers / Long cut: Ideal on a slim or average body.
V & Y fronts: Can be worn by all body types.
Five shopping tips:
1.Underwear is always bought based on the waist measurements and not the pouch or cup size.
2.Vests are not chosen according to your collar size but the measurements of your chest.
3.For sake of hygiene, countertop pieces must never be tried or tested.
4.Always buy and keep a minimum of two or three sets in your wardrobe.
The rules:
1. Fit & Form: Choose a cut, design, style, and size that gives you a snug and comfortable fit and provides optimum support. Wearing anything tight can cause long-term physical damage, while loose innerwear defeats the purpose of wearing anything at all. Don’t buy underwear that is too big, assuming that it will shrink. Most underwear is made to fit and will not shrink wash after a wash. Innerwear should fit the body without binding or bagging, regardless of your built and size.
2. The branded waist: Even though actors, models (and most posers on social media) will try and flaunt the ‘right’ branding on their waistband, especially when they are shirtless - the only time people should really see what you have on underneath is when your pants are off or down!
3. Lines: Its ugly to see bumps and lines of your innerwear on your outerwear, especially when you are wearing an exceptionally tight pair of pants, jeans, trousers, a slim or snug fit shirt or top or fabrics and materials that are soft, sheer, or clingy. You must, therefore, invest in a couple of seamless styles and wear them as and when necessary.
4. White on white: Ensure you are wearing a plain white vest and underwear when you are putting on a white shirt, top, tennis or golf shorts, track pants or lightweight linen trousers, pyjamas or lowers as anything coloured or printed will show through, when it really shouldn’t.
5. Get weather smart: On hot, humid, and rainy days, its best to wear breathable and cotton fabrics so they keep you feeling cool and comfortable as well as absorb the excessive sweat and moisture. Synthetic materials and blends are best worn in winter or in temperature-controlled surroundings.
Seven looks
The classic:
Stark white underwear and a white vest are a classic and the most popular choice amongst men. Most people find white underwear both versatile and sensual.
The minimalist:
The G- string is a good option if you have a nice firm behind that holds up without support or when you need to conceal what you are wearing under fabrics that show through seams.
The trendy:
I suggest you try underwear in contrasting colours or with a print. Try combinations like black and white or red and white. Vests and tank tops are a hot trend and can be worn on their own and without anything over them.
The sexy:
For those of you who dare or are secure about their masculinity, I recommend underwear in fabrics that are sheer, see through, textured, or have floral prints. Ideal for grooms on their wedding night, on the honeymoon or any other day when you are getting lucky or just feeling sexy.
The relaxed:
If you are into yoga, dancing, a light workout at home, this could be a comfortable and practical option. Choose fabrics that are blends and can stretch with ease without losing their shape or form. Ventilated materials and those that absorb sweat are ideal.
The masculine:
If you want your look to be masculine, I suggest you wear mid-length underwear. The advantage: this cut gives great support and works quite like a ‘push up bra’ does for women: adding volume and lifting as and where needed.
The sporty:
For sports and the gym, I suggest a very snug tight fit and a cut that allows to you to move or lift with ease. Ideally your briefs should be cut high on the sides to allow ample movement for your legs, while vests should be round neck with armholes that are close to the body. The briefs you choose should ideally have a strong support on the crotch area or have an additional support stitch or layer in front for greater security.
Personal & aftercare
To maintain personal hygiene, it’s imperative to change your vest and underwear daily. Your innerwear must never be shared or passed down to someone else.
Wash and dry after each use. Go in for anti-bacterial, quick drying fabrics to play it safe.
Machine (select a delicate cold cycle) or hand wash them with a mild detergent (skin friendly, if you have sensitive skin or prone to rashes), rinse well and ensure they are completely dry before you put them on again.
Avoid ‘chemically treating’ your innerwear as bleach and other strong formulations can ruin both the elasticity and fit, as well as irritate the skin.
Expensive, sheer, and delicate fabrics should only be hand washed.
While vests can be lightly ironed or steamed, its best to avoid ironing your underwear, unless of course they are boxers which must first be ironed, then worn.
It’s time to throw out the old, when you see visible holes, tears, and stains (that just won’t go) or when the elastic or fabric starts fraying or drooping where it shouldn’t.
The author is an image, style and grooming consultant and trainer.
From HT Brunch, May 23, 2021
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