Urvashi Rautela wears a 24K real gold Manipuri Potloi: Know more about this unique Manipuri dress

Urvashi Rautela became the first fashion showstopper and Bollywood celebrity to don a Manipuri traditional bridal dress, made from 24K gold.

Urvashi Rautela brought a Manipuri traditional garment to the international stage at the Global Fashion Festival 2024. She wore a 24K real gold Manipuri Potloi, designed by Manipuri designer Robert Naorem. This traditional outfit gave a glimpse into the Manipuri fashion, which is deeply rooted in their cultural heritage. The entire ensemble Urvashi wore is traditionally worn by a Meitei Manipuri bride.

The Manipuri bridal ensemble

The highlight of the bridal dress that sets it apart from other Indian bridal attire is the cylindrical, drum-shaped skirt, known as the potloi. Made from thick fiber and bamboo, with satin atop, the potloi undergoes extensive embellishments, including intricate threadwork, and adding sequins, and mirrors. The motifs along the skirt's hemline require delicate craftsmanship and can take days to complete. The skirt is secured with a beautiful belt. A sheer veil drapes around around the body. It is worn with a half-sleeved blouse, accessorized with layered necklaces, and a grand, tiered headwear called Kokgee Leiteng.

Traditionally Manipuri brides wear a dark green blouse and drape the muslin veil around their blouse and skirt, as can be seen in the picture of the bridal attire of Manipuri actress and Randeep Hooda's wife Lin Laishram (right.) (Instagram)

Urvashi’s red potloi flaunted heavy embroidery of threadwork from fine 24K real gold. The brides traditionally wear a green blouse and drape a white shawl around them. But Urvashi's look was in a rich red monochrome, with golden embroidery making the skirt pop.

Designer Robert Naorem’s work always celebrated North Eastern fashion. He previously worked with Miss World titleholders Sushmita Sen, Harnaaz Kaur Sandhu, and Laura Dutta in Innaphee and Phanek- the traditional, everyday Manipuri wear for women.

Innaphee is a muslin shawl, draped around the blouse, while Phanek is a traditional bottomwear for Manipuri women. It’s a sarong-like garment that has horizontal strips. But this is the first time, a Bollywood celebrity donned the Manipuri bridal outfit and walked the ramp.

Cultural origin

Potloi transcends generations and dates back to the ancient times of the Meitei kingdom. Meidingu Bhagyachandra Maharaj, whose reign was in 1763-1798, introduced the Potloi as a dance costume for the classical Ras-Leela dance. Gradually, the brides wore it as a wedding attire in the Meitei community of Manipur. The art of potloimaking is a cherished tradition passed down through generations. It’s taught in families and has no proper classroom to teach the formal process of potloimaking. Potloi requires heavy handiwork, which makes it a collective, community work. This congregation of making the potloi serves as the classroom of this ancient artform.