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Magic in a bottle: Bottle masala, a mix of flavours, adds a punch in several traditional recipes
The making of the East Indian masala used in traditional dishes such as Khudi, Moile, Lonvas, Sarpatel, Prawn Atwan and even fish curries, is usually a family tradition.
Like every community owes the distinct flavours in their food to their masalas, the bottle masala is no different for East Indians in the city. Found in the house of every person from the community, it packs quite a punch in all of their food. Simply put, bottle masala is to East Indians what Rechaedo masala is to Goans. It is also the very same reason which makes the summer season, the busiest time of their year for the community as they spend most of their time making the masala for the whole year. However, this season has been different as the lockdown has made it difficult to carry out the process, but the role of the masala in their dishes is what keeps them going. “The masala is used at least three times during the week in most traditional dishes such as Khudi, Moile, Lonvas, Sarpatel, Prawn Atwan and even fish curries,” says Bandra-based Sheryl Fonseca, who makes it herself.
In time for summer
Making the most of the blazing sun to dry the ingredients for the unique mix, the women in the community start by drying chillies, which is one of as many as 40 ingredients used to make it, not only for their families but also for the community. Just like any other family recipe, East Indians do not reveal the quantity of the ingredients used in it. However, Blossom Sequiera, Vasai local, lets us in on a few, “It has Kashmiri red chillies, coriander seeds, black stone flower, tailed pepper and more.” She adds, “it is a traditional custom to prepare this blend of spices during the summer and bottle them up to use for the rest of the year.”
Deep in ritual
For Bhayander-based Sabrina Correa, the experience of making bottle masala has turned out to be different this year. While getting the ingredients wasn’t too hard for her because she usually buys them throughout the year, it was doing it the traditional way that she missed the most. “I usually join the other ladies in Uttan village in Bhayander to make the masala but since I can’t go due to the lockdown, I am making the masala in small quantities for all those who are asking for it,” she says. Just like Correa, Malad resident Sharda Rebello who does it traditionally, taking the ingredients to grind at a pounding mill in Dahisar had to do it at her family home in Orlem, to continue the family tradition.
For the family
Starting the process in April this year, Fonseca adds that it was quite a challenge to get the ingredients but managed to procure them and make the masala for at least 50 people. The difficulty was no different for Rebello, who started making it only two weeks ago, but still went ahead and made it because of it being a yearly ritual. She adds, “I usually buy my ingredients from Mirchi Galli in Crawford Market, but since I could not go this year, I got it from elsewhere after standing for around two hours, and made it only for the family, with my mother, which makes me really happy.”
