Photos: Aboard Sada-e-Sarhad, the India-Pakistan ‘friendship bus’ | Hindustan Times
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Photos: Aboard Sada-e-Sarhad, the India-Pakistan ‘friendship bus’

Updated On Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

Relations between India and Pakistan have been strained ever since Britain gave up control of the Indian subcontinent in 1947. The countries have fought three wars, two of them over the Kashmir region that both claim in full but rule in part. For the vast majority of people in both countries, travelling to the other side is a difficult task. Arranging a visa to visit to the other side is a bureaucratic process that often takes as long as three months. Inaugurated in 1999, Sada-e-Sarhad is one of the few remaining transport links between the nuclear-armed neighbours.

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A recent Friday morning before dawn, a Volvo coach slipped out of New Delhi’s Ambedkar bus terminal under armed guard, the sirens of a police convoy wailing. Carrying a mix of Indian and Pakistani tourists, the bus, emblazoned with the flags of both countries and the phrase ‘Sada-e-Sarhad’ (Call of the Frontier), is one of the few remaining transport links between the nuclear-armed neighbours. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

A recent Friday morning before dawn, a Volvo coach slipped out of New Delhi’s Ambedkar bus terminal under armed guard, the sirens of a police convoy wailing. Carrying a mix of Indian and Pakistani tourists, the bus, emblazoned with the flags of both countries and the phrase ‘Sada-e-Sarhad’ (Call of the Frontier), is one of the few remaining transport links between the nuclear-armed neighbours. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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Armed police escort the ‘friendship bus’ through rush-hour traffic. But as Reuters found on a return trip on what is also known as the ‘dosti bus’, that runs daily except Sundays between Delhi and Lahore, it is a powerful symbol of hope for better relations between nations who despite their political differences share strong linguistic, cultural and family ties. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

Armed police escort the ‘friendship bus’ through rush-hour traffic. But as Reuters found on a return trip on what is also known as the ‘dosti bus’, that runs daily except Sundays between Delhi and Lahore, it is a powerful symbol of hope for better relations between nations who despite their political differences share strong linguistic, cultural and family ties. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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The bus at a rest stop in Sirhind. After breakfast, passengers watched a film on board starring Salman Khan. “He is one of us,” said Hilal Ahmad Mir, 36, a Kashmiri farmer. The journey from Mir’s home to Islamabad to visit his brother should be less than 300 km across the border. But he is forced to take a detour via Delhi and Lahore, eventually reaching two days later. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

The bus at a rest stop in Sirhind. After breakfast, passengers watched a film on board starring Salman Khan. “He is one of us,” said Hilal Ahmad Mir, 36, a Kashmiri farmer. The journey from Mir’s home to Islamabad to visit his brother should be less than 300 km across the border. But he is forced to take a detour via Delhi and Lahore, eventually reaching two days later. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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“Pakistan makes it easy for Kashmiris to get a visa,” Mir said. “In some ways, Pakistan and India have a very good relationship. We have had a lot of damage. We want friendship, not guns.” In an attempt to maintain close links to Indian Kashmir, Pakistan often approves visas for its population the same day. For the vast majority however, the visa often takes as long as three months. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

“Pakistan makes it easy for Kashmiris to get a visa,” Mir said. “In some ways, Pakistan and India have a very good relationship. We have had a lot of damage. We want friendship, not guns.” In an attempt to maintain close links to Indian Kashmir, Pakistan often approves visas for its population the same day. For the vast majority however, the visa often takes as long as three months. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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Border guards open the gate for the bus at the Wagah-Attari crossing. Though the bus, inaugurated in 1999 by then-prime minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee, has been briefly suspended over the years, it ran uninterrupted through the Kargil War. Neither has it been cancelled over the tensions of the last month, although passenger numbers dropped into the single digits. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

Border guards open the gate for the bus at the Wagah-Attari crossing. Though the bus, inaugurated in 1999 by then-prime minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee, has been briefly suspended over the years, it ran uninterrupted through the Kargil War. Neither has it been cancelled over the tensions of the last month, although passenger numbers dropped into the single digits. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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Clocks show the time difference between India and Pakistan at a restaurant at Wagah-Attari. Even without policing costs, the bus loses money, according to a senior Pakistani diplomat based in New Delhi. After lunch in another deserted and heavily guarded highway restaurant, the bus crossed Wagah-Attari. Most days, just 100 people cross in either direction, Indian and Pakistani border officials said. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

Clocks show the time difference between India and Pakistan at a restaurant at Wagah-Attari. Even without policing costs, the bus loses money, according to a senior Pakistani diplomat based in New Delhi. After lunch in another deserted and heavily guarded highway restaurant, the bus crossed Wagah-Attari. Most days, just 100 people cross in either direction, Indian and Pakistani border officials said. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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Hilal Ahmad Mir, smokes a cigarette after passing through immigration. Both times Reuters crossed the border, the process took close to three hours and the terminal was deserted with no travellers apart from those on the bus. Mir was held by Indian border officials for 40 minutes for questioning. “Kashmiris are dangerous,” he laughed, as he returned to the bus. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

Hilal Ahmad Mir, smokes a cigarette after passing through immigration. Both times Reuters crossed the border, the process took close to three hours and the terminal was deserted with no travellers apart from those on the bus. Mir was held by Indian border officials for 40 minutes for questioning. “Kashmiris are dangerous,” he laughed, as he returned to the bus. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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Indian spectators cheer the bus. Wagah-Attari is one of the few active border crossings between India and Pakistan. It is best known for the elaborate dusk ceremony where high-kicking guards perform a choreographed routine at a purpose-built stadium that straddles the border. Shortly before the ceremony began, the bus drove through, hundreds of spectators roaring their approval. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

Indian spectators cheer the bus. Wagah-Attari is one of the few active border crossings between India and Pakistan. It is best known for the elaborate dusk ceremony where high-kicking guards perform a choreographed routine at a purpose-built stadium that straddles the border. Shortly before the ceremony began, the bus drove through, hundreds of spectators roaring their approval. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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Passengers from the ‘friendship bus’ enter the Wagah-Attari border crossing, Pakistan. Once over to the other side, passengers passed through near-identical Pakistani immigration checks as they just did on the Indian side. On board, spirits were high as the bus began its last lap to the centre of Lahore, about 20 km away. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

Passengers from the ‘friendship bus’ enter the Wagah-Attari border crossing, Pakistan. Once over to the other side, passengers passed through near-identical Pakistani immigration checks as they just did on the Indian side. On board, spirits were high as the bus began its last lap to the centre of Lahore, about 20 km away. (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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A Pakistani boy travelling to Lahore looks out the window as a bus leaves the border crossing. “We have been visiting for the last 40 years and this time there were no problems for me as a normal visitor,” Shoaib Mohammed, a banker from Karachi returning after a month in Delhi said, of his visit to when tensions were at their peak. “I didn’t feel any anger against Pakistanis. Nothing.” (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Mar 23, 2019 10:12 AM IST

A Pakistani boy travelling to Lahore looks out the window as a bus leaves the border crossing. “We have been visiting for the last 40 years and this time there were no problems for me as a normal visitor,” Shoaib Mohammed, a banker from Karachi returning after a month in Delhi said, of his visit to when tensions were at their peak. “I didn’t feel any anger against Pakistanis. Nothing.” (Alasdair Pal / REUTERS)

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