E-Paper
On my way to the Nagaur Fort in Rajasthan, I encountered a large cloud of dust. In the still desert, this could only mean two things: a dust storm or an exodus. It turned out to be an exodus, but joining the humans and their monstrous trucks were cud-chewing cows, milky white horses, listless buffaloes and lots of haughty camels.
In January or February every year, traders from different states across the country bring between 20,000 to a lakh of these animals to the vast desert just outside of Nagaur, for the eight-day long Nagaur Cattle Fair. The fair offers an offbeat way to explore Rajasthan, away from the trappings of tourist hotspots.
Ancient antecedents
Cattle buyers arrive at Nagaur from all over Rajasthan, Punjab, Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Maharashtra and Gujarat to bargain their way into a new herd or to make at least a few additions to their flock. The sellers are almost always from Rajasthan, Punjab and Haryana. They proudly display their purebreds decked up in colourful beads and pieces of cloth.
Although the Nagaur cattle fair isn't in the same league as the Sonepur Fair in Bihar, which is Asia's largest cattle fair or even the Pushkar Fair in Rajasthan, it easily beats state competition in Gangapur, Chandrabhaga and Karauli in terms of scale. The fair has been around since the 12-15th Century. The district Ministry of Animal Husbandry has been promoting it for the last 60 years.
The town of Nagaur also has ancient antecedents. The town was at the epicentre of the Mughal invasion by Akbar in 1561. The Nagaur Fort has several legends associated with it, including that of the local ruler Rao Amar Singh Rathor, who resisted the invasion. The multi-storeyed fort offers a number of attractions for history enthusiasts.
Family and other animals
Apart from the actual give-and-take of animals, the fair also offers other entertainment options. If you're lucky, you might be able to catch a camel race or watch a traditional puppeteer.
The mela really comes alive at night as the day's toil is slowly forgotten with several rounds of whisky and folk music keeping the biting cold at bay. If animals aren't your thing and you want to heat things up a bit, you could visit the largest Mirchi Bazaar (or the Red Chilli Bazaar) in India, which is also held in Nagaur at around the same time.
At the Cattle Fair, animals are sold for anywhere between Rs 500 to a lakh or more, depending on their pedigree. Temporary encampments spring up everywhere. State lines and languages merge into one glorious, pan-Indian whole. The fair is an expo, picnic and excursion all rolled into one.
After plenty of handshakes and some coercion to pet their animals, this wandering group of livestock farmers had accepted me into their fold. Two days later, when I passed by Nagaur again, the sand had settled. The vast desert loomed, completely devoid of the frenetic activity of the past few days. My temporary family and other animals had disappeared like a mirage. It's true what they say: the Cattle Fair truly brings Nagaur to life.
Hari is a writer, photographer and radio jockey
Getting there information:
By Rail: Nagaur has a railway station. There are frequent trains to Nagaur from the state capital, Jaipur;
By Road: Nagaur is 293 km from Jaipur and 162 km from Ajmer. Jodhpur and Bikaner are the closest cities;
By Air: The closest airport is in Jodhpur, 135 km away. Regular buses and taxis are available for hire.
Must visit: Nagaur Fort and Dargah Sufi Hamiduddin, the dargah of the revered Chishti Sufi saint Hamiduddin
