Delhiwale: The Benaras Walla

A man’s 53-year-old tryst with the Capital, its people

Paan vendor Ram Jeevan is sitting patiently waiting for customers while recalling his long years in New Delhi. “I arrived here at age 14 to help supplement family income in Benaras,” he explains. “My father was a poor farmer and I couldn’t go on studying, so left for Delhi with the family’s blessings.”

Ram Jeevan, originally from Benaras, has been selling paan in Delhi for nearly 53 years. (HT Photo)

He boarded the Farakka Express for the Capital, wearing a simple white dhoti and kurta. Nearly every day for 53 years—still dressed in dhoti and kurta—he walks along city lanes, his straw basket filled with paan leaves and the various nuts and pastes.

“That’s my life, and nothing has changed,” he says. “Delhi hasn’t given me very much, so I’ve asked my sons to stay behind in Benaras and continue tilling the family land.” His own wife has never visited the capital.

Now inspecting his hands stained with the red dye of paan, Mr Jeevan explains that the discolouration isn’t as lasting as henna. “Every night I wash my hands with soap, and these stains go away. No problem!”

He returns to the pavement, sits ; covers his basket and waits for the next customer.