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Suiting up like Rocket man: An ode to Elton John’s unforgettable costumes

The singer-songwriter is on his final tour, capping 60 years in music. We’ll always have the hits. But we might miss his costumes more.

Updated on: Sep 17, 2021, 19:41:20 IST
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Some things look better, baby, just passing through. Not Elton John. The 74-year-old British singer, songwriter, musician and performer didn’t get famous by blending into the background. Fans who’ve bought more than 300 million of his records worldwide since 1969 know him as much for his costumes as for hits like Candle in the Wind (1997), Rocket Man (1982) and Hakuna Matata (1994).

Elton John has roped in Gucci to design the costumes for his farewell tour. Suits, as always, but also a more refined palette of prints and pigments will be evident at his concerts. (Rocketman Entertainment)
Elton John has roped in Gucci to design the costumes for his farewell tour. Suits, as always, but also a more refined palette of prints and pigments will be evident at his concerts. (Rocketman Entertainment)

He’s worn suits, but they’ve been covered in gold lamé, rainbow-hued rhinestones, or made entirely of red leather, shirt, waistcoat, pants and all. There have been hats – with horns, chandeliers, and feathers sprouting a foot in every direction. He’s dressed like Mozart, with powdered face, mole and wig. He’s taken style inspiration from pirates, Buckingham Palace guards, the Statue of Liberty (he was sparklier) and baseball uniforms (ditto). He’s let his very hairy chest peek out of clashing prints, metallic tracksuits and satin kimonos. And, of course, every ensemble has been accessorised with outsized, outrageous sunglasses.

A promotional image for Elton John’s Farewell, Yellow Brick Road tour. Note that his signature crazy shades are still part of his look. (EltonJohn.com)
A promotional image for Elton John’s Farewell, Yellow Brick Road tour. Note that his signature crazy shades are still part of his look. (EltonJohn.com)

In 2018, Elton John set off on what he announced would be his last tour, Farewell Yellow Brick Road. The gigs took a break during the pandemic, but have resumed and will last until 2023. Then, after more than 4,000 performances in 80 countries, he’s hanging up his boots for good.

Don’t let the sun go down on such a style icon. Gucci is honouring Elton John by designing his tour wardrobe. Their Spring/Summer 2018 collection drew direct inspiration from his colourful archives. But every step of the way, Elton John’s style has been entirely his own.

I remember when rock was young

Early in his career, Elton (born Reginald Dwight and now 74) would buy his outfits from shops in north London, rocking denim overalls dyed in bright hues. But by the early ’70s, on tours of Japan, the US and Australia, the winged boots and a distinctive look emerged at the hands of Annie Reavey, the stage stylist.

Elton John, styled by Bob Mackie, was the sparkliest Dodger to ever play at the Dodger stadium in LA. He performed there in 1975. (EltonJohn.com)
Elton John, styled by Bob Mackie, was the sparkliest Dodger to ever play at the Dodger stadium in LA. He performed there in 1975. (EltonJohn.com)

Proper inspiration, however, came from the unlikeliest source. Elton John had seen designer Bob Mackie create flamboyant but exquisitely designed outfits for Cher, covering her in strands of rhinestone, furry headdresses and daring see-through gowns. A partnership began. Mackie dressed Elton in a fully sequinned LA Dodgers uniform when he played the Dodger stadium in 1975. The look was an instant hit.

What followed was a Donald Duck costume (he could hardly sit), boas, capes, pink mohawks, hats and suits that defined his stage persona. To receive his star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame in 1973, he arrived in a gold golf cart, in a gold silk suit showing off just a bit of chest hair. The suit was covered in stars, each bearing the name of a previous artist who had been honoured on the famous pavement.

Taron Egerton, playing Elton John in the 2019 film Rocketman. (Paramount Pictures)
Taron Egerton, playing Elton John in the 2019 film Rocketman. (Paramount Pictures)

The flamboyant looks were entirely unconnected to his songs, hits about love, friendship and music itself. But they’ve been an inseparable part of the performer, who came out as gay in 1992. That’s the year he also collaborated with designer Gianni Versace. The designer created the artwork for his 24th studio album, The One, in addition to the wardrobe for his world tour — checked prints, all-white ensembles, more satin. A more grown-up restraint came when Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto created looks for him from 2003 to 2010, though there still were bright purple tailcoats, metallic cravats and lots of velvet.

You can look at this wardrobe and laugh. There is, after all, a whole pride parade’s worth of razzle-dazzle on some ensembles. But Elton John, a fierce LGBT activist, knew how to wield flamboyance against unkempt metalheads, clean-cut crooners and angsty balladeers. Those suits are ridiculous, but they’re immaculately cut. There’s not a sequin out of place.

The Barbie created in his honour in 2020 is elegant, but nowhere as fun. How long until there’s another musician this unique? I think it’s gonna be a long, long time.

Greatest hits: Elton John in five objects

The Elton John special-edition Barbie is styled just like the music superstar, down to rainbow-coloured platform shoes. (Mattel Inc)
The Elton John special-edition Barbie is styled just like the music superstar, down to rainbow-coloured platform shoes. (Mattel Inc)

The clothes: Bruce Springsteen recalls blue jeans and a white T-shirt. Elton John’s signature look is flamboyant and theatrical, wigs included.

The sunglasses: Heart shaped lenses, spangled frames, sequinned rims, oversized bubbles, feathers, windshield wipers.

The piano: His skills were legendary. And because the piano wasn’t as sexy as rockers’ guitars, he added costumery for the crowds.

The Barbie: Mattel’s Elton John special-edition doll wears a purple bowler hat, pink-tinted sunglasses, a shimmery top, flared monogrammed jeans, and an embossed bomber jacket. Don’t miss the rainbow-striped platform boots.

The music: There are 36 albums, nine soundtracks and more compilations than even fans can keep track of. Goodbye Yellow Brick Road (1973) has sold more than 30 million copies worldwide.

  • Rachel Lopez
    ABOUT THE AUTHOR
    Rachel Lopez

    Rachel Lopez is a a writer and editor with the Hindustan Times. She has worked with the Times Group, Time Out and Vogue and has a special interest in city history, culture, etymology and internet and society.Read More

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