INDIAsize: A move in the right direction

The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), New Delhi under the aegis of Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, is undertaking an extensive anthropometric research study to develop a comprehensive body size chart for the Indian population.

Walking into a shopping mall and trying on clothes, realising nothing ever fits is downright traumatic. For shoppers in India, size options at stores are limited to the UK, US or Euro chart and there isn’t an option that adheres to Indian body types. But fret not, as that is about to change.

The National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), New Delhi under the aegis of Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, is undertaking an extensive anthropometric research study to develop a comprehensive body size chart for the Indian population.

“The INDIA size survey will result in the creation of Size identification number for a customer through mapping, categorization and defining of their body size. This will help manufacturers to produce goods suited for the body size of the target consumer and help consumers to identify sizes that will be best suited for them resulting in a match and hence improved sales. Apart from apparel, the findings of the study will also have applications across various other industries where the insights from this data can produce ergonomically designed products which are well suited for the Indian population,” says U.P. Singh, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.

The project approved by Government of India entails measuring of more than 25000 male and female persons between the age group of 15 years and 65 years and above in six different cities located in six regions of India namely New Delhi (North), Mumbai (West), Chennai (South), Hyderabad (Centre), Kolkata (East) and Shillong (North-East)using 3D whole body scanners.

The study aims at not only standardizing garment size charts for the Indian apparel sector but the findings of the study will have ramifications across various sectors such as automotive, aerospace, fitness and sport, art, computer gaming where the insights from this data can produce ergonomically designed products which are well suited for the Indian population.

“The vision of this project is to dress the Indian population with very good fit and undo the prevalent practice of using size charts which are largely tweaked versions of size charts of other countries resulting in fits that are a cause for concern. The project also envisions a reduced product return which currently hovers in the range of 20 – 40% in the RTW (Ready-to-wear) industry,” says Shantmanu, IAS, Director General NIFT.

He further believes, doing so will help the sector immensely on lost sales , cost of return and et al. Apart from apparel, the findings and insights of the study will also have applications across various industries such as producing ergonomically designed products that are well suited for the Indian population.

The survey will result in the creation of a size identification number for a customer through mapping, categorization and defining of their body size. This will help manufacturers to produce goods suited for the body size of the target consumer and help consumers to identify sizes which will be best suited for them resulting in a match and hence sales.

“The project entails measuring statistically relevant sample size pan India and targets more than 25000 male and female population of various demographics i.e. age region income rural and urban to cover for variations impacting the body shape and size,” says Professor Noopur Anand PhD, NIFT.

She adds, “Currently Indian consumers are facing issues of either not finding their sizes in the available range of garments or garments which are ill-fitting as in absence of standardised Indian body size charts these garments are being made on instinct of the manufacturers and retailers. Result is dissatisfied customers. The INDIAsize survey aims to develop standard body sizes for Indian consumers to address these prevailing issues. This will help manufacturers to produce goods suited for the body size of the Indian consumer which will result in better fitting clothes hence satisfied customers.”

One is compelled to ask why the need for body scanners. “The 3D whole body scanners are a non-contact method of extracting body measurements and capture highly accurate 3D body maps in less than 10 seconds in one posture. It scans the body and creates a point cloud from where hundreds of body measurements are extracted automatically through computer programming eliminating manual measurement and transcription errors. This technology is quick, consistent and human safe and helps immensely reduce the time frame of the anthropometric surveys,” adds Anand.

Namrata Joshipura, designer, says, “We have always followed UK and US sizes and have never had an Indian size. Indian body type is very different as compared to European and American counterparts. This seems like a push in the right direction for both designers and consumers. Our stores usually follow the standard smlxl sizing so I am very curious to know how this would pan out.

“The overarching reason is differences in body shape and size of people in different geographical regions across the country. This has led countries to undertake national sizing surveys to create an anthropometric database of measurements which is a true representation of the entire population, to cater to their respective retail industry. The size charts and insights generated through these surveys and corresponding analysis has helped the garment industry to provide well-fitting garments designed as per the body structure of the native population,” opines Anand.

Countries across the world like the USA, Canada, Mexico, UK, France, Spain, Germany, Sweden, Italy, Netherlands, Thailand, Korea, China, Australia etc., have undertaken and successfully completed national sizing surveys. INDIAsize is such a study to create a size chart which would provide better fitting garments to the Indian population. The mindsets will adapt once they see a better reference to their size and fits, believes Anand.

As the body positivity movement continues to gain momentum, embracing size inclusivity to offer products and styles that fully fit the needs of their customers has become of paramount importance. “Data will be collected from a diversified sample population and later analysed for body shape and sizes. This diversified sample population will include all and sundry and yes, we are conscious of inclusivity. Participants from various demographics are invited to participate in the survey so that all variations of the population are addressed in the data collection,” says Shantmanu.

“The body type of India, as it were, has been a melting pot for so many races and people, visiting or indigenous and this has given much diversity. Added to that, urban developments , migrations , lifestyle choices, so this seems like a timely initiative. Research and study around this is welcome as is the progress in ergonomic design, says Anupamaa Dayal, designer.

The project is likely to be completed by Dec 2022. It will position India on a global platform among few other countries, which have undertaken such surveys. The standardized body size Chart for Indian apparel, which will be the outcome of this study, will not only be of tremendous value to the consumer in providing better fits.