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Photos: Escaping death and rebirth on Varanasi’s ghats

Boats loaded with wood arrive almost constantly at the famous ghats of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh for around 200 cremations per day on the banks of India's holy Ganga river. Each pyre needs between 200 and 400 kilogrammes of wood, meaning the sacred city in northern India burns through as much as 80 tonnes every day.

Updated on: Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM IST

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A man stokes a funeral pyre at the traditional crematorium grounds at Harischandra Ghat on the river Ganga in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. The ghats of this ancient city witness around 200 cremations per day on the banks of the country’s holiest river. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

Updated on Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM

A man stokes a funeral pyre at the traditional crematorium grounds at Harischandra Ghat on the river Ganga in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. The ghats of this ancient city witness around 200 cremations per day on the banks of the country’s holiest river. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

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A worker unloads wood from a boat to be used at the traditional crematorium grounds at Manikarnika Ghat. Boats like this one arrive almost constantly at the ghats. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

Updated on Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM

A worker unloads wood from a boat to be used at the traditional crematorium grounds at Manikarnika Ghat. Boats like this one arrive almost constantly at the ghats. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

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The wood stock at the traditional crematorium grounds at Manikarnika Ghat. Each pyre needs between 200 and 400 kilogrammes, meaning the sacred city in northern India burns through as much as 80 tonnes every day. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

Updated on Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM

The wood stock at the traditional crematorium grounds at Manikarnika Ghat. Each pyre needs between 200 and 400 kilogrammes, meaning the sacred city in northern India burns through as much as 80 tonnes every day. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

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A body is carried to be cremated at Manikarnika Ghat. To reduce the volume used, as well as air and water pollution, authorities have tried to push the use of alternative burning materials such as cow-dung. But without much success. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

Updated on Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM

A body is carried to be cremated at Manikarnika Ghat. To reduce the volume used, as well as air and water pollution, authorities have tried to push the use of alternative burning materials such as cow-dung. But without much success. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

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“People have to be sensitised about the emissions caused by wood burning. Only then can this issue be tackled,” said Vivek Chattopadhyay, pollution expert at the Centre for Science and Environment. For centuries Hindus have visited Varanasi to cremate their dead so that they can achieve “moksha”, the release from the cycle of death and rebirth. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

Updated on Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM

“People have to be sensitised about the emissions caused by wood burning. Only then can this issue be tackled,” said Vivek Chattopadhyay, pollution expert at the Centre for Science and Environment. For centuries Hindus have visited Varanasi to cremate their dead so that they can achieve “moksha”, the release from the cycle of death and rebirth. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

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Men search for valuable metals such as gold and silver from dead bodies at Manikarnika Ghat. As the bodies wrapped in white shrouds and marigold flowers turn to ash, the remains are collected and sprinkled in the river. At the ghats, the Doms pass flaming torches to the families of the deceased, who ignite the wooden pyres dotting the riverside. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

Updated on Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM

Men search for valuable metals such as gold and silver from dead bodies at Manikarnika Ghat. As the bodies wrapped in white shrouds and marigold flowers turn to ash, the remains are collected and sprinkled in the river. At the ghats, the Doms pass flaming torches to the families of the deceased, who ignite the wooden pyres dotting the riverside. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

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Anything encroaching on the tradition can set tempers flaring. “Since Varanasi is a sacred city, people want to stick to the strict rituals and don’t want to adopt these new methods of cremation,” said Nitin Bansal, municipal commissioner of Varanasi. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

Updated on Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM

Anything encroaching on the tradition can set tempers flaring. “Since Varanasi is a sacred city, people want to stick to the strict rituals and don’t want to adopt these new methods of cremation,” said Nitin Bansal, municipal commissioner of Varanasi. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

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Bodies being cremated at Harischandra Ghat. Electric crematoriums introduced in 1989 as part of the “Clean Ganga” action plan have not found many takers in spite of the lower cost -- around $6 compared to $60-70 -- and being less polluting. On average only five to seven bodies are cremated every day in the electric crematoriums. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

Updated on Nov 24, 2018 2:08 PM

Bodies being cremated at Harischandra Ghat. Electric crematoriums introduced in 1989 as part of the “Clean Ganga” action plan have not found many takers in spite of the lower cost -- around $6 compared to $60-70 -- and being less polluting. On average only five to seven bodies are cremated every day in the electric crematoriums. (Dominique Faget / AFP)

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