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The ‘Art of Time’: Pairings perfected over time
A Brunch Focus Collaboration: The primary objective of pairing one whisky with varied cuisines was to bring out the perfect harmony between the two, by showcasing legacy foods with a spirit that has benefitted from the power of time
Some of the world’s oldest crafts have, over time, matured into products of unrivalled perfection. The first examples of jewellery for instance that date back to ancient Egypt, have spawned a host of luxury jewellery houses like Cartier — known for producing extravagant gems of the highest quality and most adroit arrangement. The art of perfumery is another example, where fragrances that began in ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, the Indus Valley Civilisation and possibly Ancient China, graduated from the use of aromatic plants to a blend of flowers, mosses, resins and synthetics in order that fragrances evaporated slowly and their scent lingered. In 1921, a perfume was launched that made use of aliphatic aldehydes to add a sparkly top note to its base of rose and jasmine. The perfume was called Chanel No. 5 and it was the first to become an iconic brand.
Cuisine was also refined and developed through the centuries. France was the place that saw the birth of both haute and nouvelle cuisine. The first is the traditional cuisine of world-famous chefs, while the latter is a modern cuisine where younger and not-so-young chefs experiment with new associations of ingredients as well as ways cooking them. In India, historical accounts reveal that Humayun brought Persian influences to the Mughal table while his Iranian wife Hamida, introduced the lavish use of saffron and dry fruits into the royal kitchens during the first half of the 16th century.
As time went on, beverages and spirits began to evolve and the art of distillation spread to Scotland and Ireland. The oldest licensed distillery, Bowmore, in Islay, has been one of the world’s foremost places for whisky and one of Scotland’s five whisky regions protected by law.
A global campaign, ‘The Art of Time’ tells the story of Bowmore’s whisky, its exceptional quality and how its whiskies benefit from the power of time, becoming even more beautiful and precious over the years. Perfectly timed fermentation periods, hand-selection of casks as well as care and attention to detail is what creates the complex balance of not just mild smokiness, but also maritime minerality and fresh stone fruit notes, which are so characteristic of Bowmore’s timeless house style. This is the reason why Bowmore whiskies age like no others, making them one of the world’s most collectible Islay malts today.
Amongst life’s most fascinating experiences is matching whisky flavours with food aromas that either enhance the taste or contrast with it. From a humble beginning in the early nineties at elitist tables with a small group of enthusiasts, the concept of food pairing has come into its own.
I introduced this concept to India in March 2007 and it seems there has been no looking back. Pairing planned well is a very dignified and enriching experience and as such, I wanted to re-live the experience and undertake an intimate voyage, pairing one whisky with varied cuisines. The primary objective was to bring out the perfect harmony between the two, by showcasing foods that been perfected over time. I also wanted to see how dishes that have been served over a long time, which embody the ‘Art of Time’, paired with an elegant single malt.
The whisky of choice was the Bowmore 12 YO, with its slight smoky, citrus and mellow honey notes. This is a complex and balanced whisky with a 40 per cent ABV. It has puffs of peat smoke and pools of honey, sharpened by lemon zest. Subtle lemon and sweet heather honey complement Bowmore’s trademark peat smoke, leading to a delicious, long and mellow finish. Bowmore is the oldest licensed distillery, on Islay and tells the tale of time.
I structured the ‘The Art of Time’ voyage in such a way that the tasting notes married well with the cuisine and dishes that had legacy attached to them. On our journey we paired signature dishes that offer a harmony of flavours and also embody the Art of Time. The pairings made a good whisky a grand experience!
The voyage started with The Lodhi, New Delhi, where chef Vijay Thapliyal offered lamb chops to go with the whisky, served on a bed of mashed potatoes. At Perbacco, the Italian restaurant we sampled lamb loin, artichoke, mint and pecorino.
At The Oberoi, Mumbai we paired the whisky with the grilled lamb chops, mash, seared milky shallots with bourbon jus.
The Leela Palace, New Delhi paired the Bowmore 12 YO with Raan-e-Jamavar, an overnight-marinated leg of mutton that’s slowly braised in the tandoor – a perfect companion to the whisky as it ensured the harmony of flavours. And a pumpkin and mascaporne ravioli tossed in a thyme and butter sauce, where the earthy notes of pumpkin from Le Cirque and 24-hour braised pork belly, cooked in a miso-soy sake, were served in thin slices and smeared with a glaze, along with a Karashi Japanese mustard garnish from Megu. At the St. Regis in Mumbai, the choice of pairing was a salmon steak and greens, which I suspect was off the menu but a remarkable pairing ensued.
At The Hyatt Regency in Chennai, we paired the whisky with a Pepper Fry and mushrooms cooked in curry leaves. At JW Marriott, Kolkata, we had paired the whisky with pork belly, a sweet sauce and small Asian dumplings.
We found quite a few revelations and interesting surprises. So, if you have the patience, a broad view and you are not looking at the regular fare and style of eating, this is a customised journey that will not leave you disappointed!
Disclaimer: This content is for people above 25 years of age only
From HT Brunch, July 4, 2021
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