Delhiwale: The art of being a ‘colony’ gourmand

The charms of a simple unpretentious neighbourhood eatery

Visitors to Delhi who hang around for a few days can’t help noticing all those exotic restaurants in fancy markets and malls offering specialty dishes from around the world, and also from lesser-known cuisines within the country.

Anupama Sweets, Kailash Colony (HT Photo)

But then there are more traditional eateries like Anupama Sweets with its neighbourly ambiance and tasty masala dosa.

Diners at Anupama in the Kailash Colony market, for instance, may well feel they’re among neighbourhood “aunties” and “uncles”.

Sort of like hanging out with good folks from your own lane or apartment complex.

Take this evening. Over there, a young man in shorts and baseball cap—looking like a typical “US-educated bhaiya” next door— is perched on a chair, watching a political speech on the TV stuck on the wall. On the next table, two elderly ladies are talking conspiratorially in a low voice in what seems to be Punjabi. And a young mom with two kids is busy over a plate of chhole bhature.

Founded in 1968, Anupama is indeed one of those hyperlocal eateries that steer clear of enforced sleekness. Unpretentious and cosy: that’s the ticket.

A major renovation in 2016 made this south Delhi eatery a tad more aloof from the hustle-bustle of the lively market lane outside, but the simplicity is still there. Serving quite possibly the same set of families and patrons. And unconsciously oblivious to changing trends in taste and décor.

In short: place like Anupama are where you might head when you feel like going retro: Greasing your belly with good old north Indian-style masala dosa or perhaps the Punjabi version of vegetarian chowmein noodles, or may be a plate of dhokla with its long hari mirchis. The chai, as well, tastes reassuringly homey.