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From pigmentation to skin firmness: Shaily Mehrotra, founder of Fixderma, shares her approach to targeted skincare innovation
Fixderma was established to bridge the gap between pharmaceutical skincare and mass-market beauty products.
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The skincare industry is moving beyond products that promise an instant glow, with consumers increasingly looking for science-backed formulations that address specific skin concerns. From pigmentation and uneven skin tone to fine lines, loss of firmness and hydration, the focus is shifting towards targeted skincare, ingredient transparency and a better understanding of how formulations work.
For Fixderma and FCL, this approach has been central to their brand philosophy. Over the years, the brands have expanded their presence across dermatology clinics, e-commerce platforms and other consumer channels. FCL has also explored newer areas of skincare innovation, including its Biomimetic Exosome Range, which uses plant-derived biomimetic exosome technology. The range, initially introduced through dermatologists, has since expanded to online platforms, reflecting the growing interest in advanced skincare formulations.
In this interview with HT Lifestyle, Shaily Mehrotra, founder of Fixderma and FCL, discusses the journey of building science-led skincare brands in India, the thinking behind formulation innovation and the role of emerging technologies such as biomimetic exosomes. The conversation also explores common misconceptions about pigmentation, the growing interest in preventive anti-ageing skincare, and how consumers can choose targeted ingredients without overloading their routines. Looking ahead, the discussion examines the trends shaping the skincare industry and the brands' vision for developing solutions that prioritise formulation quality, transparency and consumer trust.
Q. What inspired you to establish Fixderma and FCL? When you entered the Indian dermatology and skincare market, what gap did you identify, and how did that shape the vision for both brands?
Shaily Mehrotra: When we started Fixderma in 2010, the Indian skincare market was very different from what it is today. There were pharmaceutical products available for treating skin concerns, and then there were products designed for the mass market. However, there was very little in between: effective, science-backed skincare that consumers could access without a medical prescription. That was the gap we wanted to address.
My experience working with international skincare brands had exposed me to different approaches to product development, and I saw an opportunity to bring that understanding to India. We wanted to make dermaceutical skincare more accessible, with formulations designed around specific skin concerns rather than simply following beauty trends. That became the foundation of Fixderma.
FCL emerged from the same philosophy but with a more premium, formulation-led approach. We wanted to develop advanced skincare solutions for consumers looking for more targeted products, with a greater emphasis on ingredients, formulation science and their intended benefits. Both brands share a commitment to skin health, but cater to consumers with different needs and expectations. For us, the larger vision has always been to bridge the gap between skincare science and what consumers can realistically access and use in their daily routines.
Q. Over the years, both Fixderma and FCL have evolved significantly. Looking back, what have been some of the defining milestones in your journey, and what has been your biggest learning as an entrepreneur?
Shaily Mehrotra: There have been many defining moments, but I don't think any one decision can be credited with building a business. It is a cumulative effect of several decisions, some right, some wrong, and some that perhaps should have been taken earlier. For me, persistence and resilience have been the biggest factors.
Starting with dermatologists as our primary channel was an important decision. It was not necessarily the easiest route, but it allowed us to build trust around our products and their purpose. Establishing our own manufacturing facility in 2013 was another significant milestone because it gave us greater control over quality and product development.
Over time, we expanded into e-commerce, marketplaces and newer consumer channels, while continuing to build our presence internationally. FCL has also allowed us to explore more advanced formulations for specific skin concerns.
My biggest learning is that building a brand takes time. You cannot expect every decision to work, and there will be periods when things do not move as quickly as you would like. What matters is whether you continue learning, stay close to your consumers and remain committed to the quality of what you offer. We have always believed in taking steady steps rather than growing simply for the sake of growth.
Q. FCL has built its reputation on science-backed skincare and clinically proven formulations. What is your philosophy when it comes to product innovation, and how do you decide which technologies or ingredients are worth investing in?
Shaily Mehrotra: For me, innovation has to begin with a skin concern, not with an ingredient that happens to be popular. We first need to understand the problem we are trying to address, how it affects the consumer and what kind of formulation can offer a meaningful solution.
There are so many ingredients and technologies being discussed today. However, not everything that is trending is necessarily right for every product or every skin type. We look at the purpose of an ingredient, its compatibility with other ingredients, the formulation as a whole and the evidence supporting the claims we want to make.
Our approach to innovation is also reflected in our patented products. For Nigrifix, we hold a patent relating to the process used to manufacture the product. Similarly, AHA Lightening Gel has a patent relating to its formulation. These are important milestones for us because they reflect our efforts to develop differentiated solutions rather than simply replicate what is already available in the market.
At FCL, we follow the same principle of developing products around specific concerns, whether that is pigmentation, fine lines, under-eye concerns or skin firmness. The ingredients need to work together for a clear purpose; simply adding more actives does not automatically make a product better.
Ultimately, quality and transparency are non-negotiable. Consumers deserve to understand what they are using and what they can realistically expect from it. We want our innovation to translate into useful skincare, rather than just a new claim on a product label.
Q. FCL has recently reintroduced its Biomimetic Exosome Range. What led to the decision to relaunch the range, and what role do you see biomimetic exosomes playing in the future of science-backed skincare?
Shaily Mehrotra: I believe topical exosomes are an exciting area of exploration in skincare science and could play an important role in the next phase of formulation-led innovation. At FCL, we introduced our plant-derived biomimetic exosome range two years ago, initially making it available exclusively through dermatologists. We wanted to build the range through a channel where consumers could discover these advanced formulations with professional guidance.
The response from consumers encouraged us to expand its availability beyond clinics. This led to our decision to make the range available through our website and leading e-commerce marketplaces, allowing more consumers to explore the technology. We also brought Tisca Chopra on board as our key opinion leader to help communicate the range and its positioning to a wider audience.
Our exosome range is priced at a premium compared with some alternatives available in the market, primarily because of our focus on plant-derived biomimetic exosome technology and the formulations we have developed around it. We believe that innovation should be supported by a clear purpose, and each product in the range has been developed to address a specific skin concern.
The range includes solutions targeting concerns such as deep pigmentation, loss of skin firmness and hydration loss. Our formulations are designed to support enhanced ingredient delivery, with the brand's technology positioned around delivery up to 20 times deeper into the skin. The actual performance, of course, needs to be understood in the context of the individual formulation and the evidence supporting it.
I believe technologies like these will continue to be explored as skincare science advances. However, being new is not enough on its own. The formulation, safety, supporting evidence and consumer experience are what ultimately matter.
Q. For readers who may be hearing about biomimetic exosomes for the first time, how would you explain the technology in simple terms, and what makes it different from conventional skincare ingredients and delivery systems?
Shaily Mehrotra: The simplest way to explain exosomes is to think of them as tiny messengers, almost like postmen, that carry information or molecules from one place to another. Naturally occurring exosomes play a role in communication between cells. Biomimetic exosomes are designed to imitate certain features of these naturally occurring structures.
To understand the idea in skincare, consider an ingredient such as hyaluronic acid, which is widely used to help maintain skin hydration. When we formulate skincare, it is not just about selecting a beneficial ingredient; it is also about how that ingredient is incorporated into the formulation and delivered to the skin. Exosome-inspired delivery systems explore ways of transporting or supporting the delivery of selected ingredients, rather than relying on the ingredient alone.
At FCL, we use plant-derived biomimetic exosome technology in our range. Our approach is centred on using this technology to support the delivery of ingredients within targeted formulations. The brand's technology is designed to enable delivery up to 20 times deeper into the skin, although this should be understood as a formulation-specific claim that depends on the supporting evidence.
There is also an interesting aspect to how we understand skin ageing. Cellular communication and skin renewal processes change as we age, which is one reason why skincare needs can evolve over time. However, it is important not to interpret this as a simple or universal decline in cellular communication at a particular age.
I see biomimetic exosomes as an evolving area of skincare science. They are not the same as naturally occurring human exosomes, nor should topical skincare products be equated with medical exosome treatments. What matters is understanding the technology, the formulation in which it is used and the evidence supporting its intended benefits.
Q. Pigmentation continues to be one of the most common skin concerns among Indian consumers. Despite growing awareness, what are some of the biggest misconceptions around treating pigmentation, and how is FCL addressing this concern through its targeted solutions?
Shaily Mehrotra: One of the biggest misconceptions is that pigmentation can be treated quickly by using stronger products or combining several active ingredients. Another is the belief that home remedies are always safer because they use natural ingredients. We often see DIY skincare trends online encouraging people to scrub their skin with coffee or apply lemon directly to their face. These practices can irritate the skin and potentially worsen inflammation and post-inflammatory pigmentation, rather than improve it.
People also tend to underestimate the importance of sunscreen. Many skip it on cloudy days or during winter because they assume that sun protection is only necessary in hot weather. However, consistent protection against ultraviolet radiation remains important throughout the year, particularly for people managing pigmentation.
Pigmentation can have different causes, including sun exposure, acne marks, inflammation and hormonal factors. Therefore, the approach needs to depend on what is causing it. Alongside an appropriate skincare routine, a balanced diet and healthy lifestyle habits also contribute to overall skin health, although diet alone cannot be expected to treat pigmentation.
At FCL, we approach pigmentation through targeted formulations that combine ingredients selected for their particular roles. Our Skin Brightening Complex is designed to address uneven skin tone, while our Biomimetic Exosome Range includes formulations featuring cysteamine, an ingredient used in pigmentation-focused skincare to help address excess melanin production. Cysteamine acts on pathways involved in melanin production, and its effectiveness depends on the formulation and how it is used.
Our focus is on combining relevant ingredients with a formulation approach designed to support their delivery, rather than relying on a single ingredient or an exaggerated promise of instant results.
I would also encourage consumers to be patient. Pigmentation often develops over time, and improvement takes consistency. Using too many actives, changing products every few weeks or irritating the skin can make the situation more difficult to manage.
The objective should not be to change one's natural skin colour. It should be to address uneven pigmentation, support skin health and achieve a healthier-looking, more even complexion. Where pigmentation is persistent, worsening or unexplained, consulting a dermatologist is the best way to identify the underlying cause.
Q. Preventive anti-ageing is becoming increasingly popular, with consumers investing in skincare much earlier than before. How are innovations like FCL's Face Lift Matrix and Neck Firming Complex helping redefine the way people approach ageing skin?
Shaily Mehrotra: I think the biggest shift is that consumers are beginning to understand skincare as something they need to approach consistently, rather than something they turn to only when a visible concern appears. At the same time, I believe targeted skincare becomes particularly relevant as people move into their 30s, when concerns such as changes in skin texture, firmness, hydration and the appearance of fine lines may become more noticeable. This does not mean everyone needs an extensive routine at a particular age; individual skin needs should guide those decisions.
Ageing is a natural process, and there is nothing wrong with it. However, people are increasingly interested in maintaining skin quality, hydration, firmness and texture as they age. That is where a preventive approach becomes relevant.
At FCL, products such as Face Lift Matrix and Neck Firming Complex are part of our effort to address concerns that often receive less attention in a regular skincare routine. The face gets a lot of attention, but the neck is also an area where visible changes in skin texture and firmness can occur. Our philosophy is to create targeted formulations for these concerns rather than expecting one product to address everything.
We are also working with Neelam Kothari, who is coming on board in association with these two products. We see this as an opportunity to bring greater visibility to targeted skincare and encourage more informed conversations around caring for the face and neck as part of an overall routine.
I would also say that preventive skincare does not have to mean starting a complicated routine at a very young age. Basic habits such as sun protection, moisturising and avoiding unnecessary irritation remain important. More targeted products can be introduced when there is a genuine need, keeping individual skin type and tolerance in mind.
Q. With consumers increasingly seeking dermatologist-backed, result-oriented skincare, what do you believe will be the next big trends shaping the future of the skincare industry, and how is FCL preparing for them?
Shaily Mehrotra: I believe the next phase of skincare will be shaped less by individual trends and more by consumers asking better questions. People are increasingly interested in understanding ingredients, concentrations, formulations and whether a product is suitable for their particular concern.
We are also seeing greater interest in advanced delivery technologies, peptides, targeted treatments and products that address specific concerns rather than offering broad, generic promises. At the same time, there is growing awareness of the importance of the skin barrier and the problems that can arise from overusing active ingredients.
Another important area is the development of products suited to different skin types, climates and lifestyles. India is an extremely diverse market, and formulations cannot simply be copied from another market without considering how consumers here live and what their skin needs.
At FCL, we intend to continue investing in formulation-led innovation and developing products with a clear purpose. We are interested in newer technologies, but we do not believe in introducing a product simply because an ingredient is trending.
Ultimately, the brands that will build lasting trust are those that can connect their claims to the quality of their formulations and provide consumers with honest expectations. That is the direction in which we want to keep moving.
Q. Looking ahead, what is your long-term vision for FCL, and what can consumers expect from the brand as you continue to expand your portfolio of science-backed skincare solutions?
Shaily Mehrotra: My vision for FCL is to build a strong, premium skincare brand known for the quality of its formulations and its ability to address specific skin concerns. We want consumers and dermatologists to recognise FCL for the thought and science that go into developing each product.
There is considerable scope to develop more targeted solutions, particularly as consumers become more aware of the ingredients they use and the results they expect. Our focus will remain on areas such as pigmentation, skin renewal, ageing concerns and other needs where formulation-led innovation can make a difference.
We also want to make advanced skincare more accessible to consumers who may previously have encountered these products only through dermatology clinics. Expanding our online availability is an important step in that direction, while maintaining the premium positioning and product quality that define FCL.
At the same time, we do not want to expand simply to have a larger portfolio. Every product should have a clear purpose and a reason to exist. We will continue to invest in research, explore relevant technologies and develop solutions that reflect the evolving needs of Indian consumers.
For me, long-term success is about building consumer trust. That takes time, consistency and the willingness to keep improving.
Q. Ingredients such as niacinamide, vitamin C, alpha arbutin, kojic acid, azelaic acid, and tranexamic acid are commonly used for pigmentation. How should consumers choose the right ingredient without overusing actives?
Shaily Mehrotra: The first thing I would tell consumers is that they do not need to use every ingredient they read about. There is a tendency to believe that combining more actives will deliver faster results, but skincare does not work that way. Too many products, particularly when introduced together, can irritate the skin and compromise the skin barrier.
Each of these ingredients has a different role. Niacinamide can help support the skin barrier and improve the appearance of uneven skin tone. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help address the appearance of discolouration and support a brighter-looking complexion. Alpha arbutin and kojic acid are used to target excess pigmentation, while azelaic acid can be useful for concerns involving acne and post-inflammatory marks. Tranexamic acid is another ingredient used in formulations targeting persistent uneven pigmentation.
However, the right choice depends on the type and cause of pigmentation, your skin type, the formulation and how well your skin tolerates it. The ingredient name alone does not tell you how effective or suitable a product will be.
My advice is to begin with a simple routine: a gentle cleanser, a suitable moisturiser and broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day. Introduce one targeted product at a time, follow the directions and give it enough time to work. Avoid combining several strong actives without understanding whether they are compatible or appropriate for your skin.
It is also important to remember that sunscreen is not optional when treating pigmentation. Daily sun protection helps prevent existing discolouration from becoming more pronounced and supports the results of your routine.
If pigmentation is persistent, severe or keeps returning, seek advice from a dermatologist rather than repeatedly changing products yourself. The aim is to find a routine that works for your skin over time, not to use the maximum number of ingredients.
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