Milan Fashion Week: Prada reconstructs femininity starting with the little black dress fit to dark times

Prada's Fall-Winter 2025-26 collection showcased liberating designs at Milan Fashion Week, featuring oversized knit dresses and relaxed silhouettes.

Prada opened its runway show during Milan Fashion Week on Thursday with its take on the little black dress, reflecting what Miuccia Prada called “a very black moment” in world affairs.

“To work in this difficult moment is really tough,” Prada said backstage. Sidestepping overtly political discussion, she added: ”What we try to do are clothes that make sense for women today."

Liberating women

Prada's Fall-Winter 2025-26 collection aimed to liberate women from strictly feminine forms. In that way the little black dress series and other runway looks were loosely constructed, not body-hugging. Co-creative director Raf Simons said liberation was in itself an act of resistance.

“You cannot be liberated if you don't take a risk. There needs to be more resistance,” he said.

The black numbers gave way to girlish knit dresses in Alice-in-Wonderland oversized proportions, layered over trousers for winter days on the playground. Pyjamas made a now-familiar shift to daywear, with button tops tucked into sleeper skirts.

Raw seams were intentionally revealed on garments. Waistlines were gathered as if by basting, and could be moved from the waist for a midi-skirt or over the bust for a minidress.

“I would also say that we have rejected a lot of construction," Simons said, specifically construction that restricts movement.

Gestures of glamour

It’s a mix-and-match world at Prada, and just about any of the pieces work as separates: Short-sleeve and tube knitwear tops were bedecked with baubles like found treasures. Men’s shirts scrunched messily at the waist as if they came untucked.

Staples were glammed up with faux fur stoles and fur lapels on coats, blazers and a striking lime green poncho.

Prada VIPs

American actress Hunter Schafer was among the front-row guests, invited in a show of support, the designers said. The trans actress posted recently that her new passport had been issued with a male gender marker.

As usual, crowds of fans waited opposite the Fondazione Prada show space to shower adoration on VIPs. Other front-row stars included Juliette Binoche, Gal Gadot, Maya Hawke and Chen Haoyu, along with Japanese singers Jo and Harua and Korean singer Karina.

Is Prada shopping?

Milan is abuzz with speculation over whether an Italian company might step forward to buy the rival fashion house, Versace. Market speculation has focused on the Prada Group, which, besides its namesake brand, owns Miu Miu, the footwear brands Church's and Car Shoe, and Marchesi 1824 pastry shops.

"I think it is on everybody’s table," Prada said with a chuckle when asked about the Prada Group's interest.