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Ankur Rathee on men's fashion, jewellery and why personal style matters
Actor Ankur Rathee of Four More Shots Please! and Made in Heaven talks about men's fashion, experimenting with jewellery and personal style
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Actor Ankur Rathee, known for playing Arjun Nair in Amazon Prime Video's Four More Shots Please! and appearing in Made in Heaven, Thappad and the crime thriller series Undekhi, has built a career across films, streaming and theatre. Having worked in both Bollywood and Hollywood, he has also developed a distinctive perspective on fashion, personal style and red-carpet dressing.
From experimenting with unconventional silhouettes to embracing accessories beyond the conventional wristwatch, Rathee believes that fashion should be an extension of one's personality rather than an exercise in following trends. He also has strong opinions about men's changing wardrobes, the return of relaxed trouser silhouettes and why a well-chosen accessory can transform even the simplest outfit.
In this conversation, Rathee opens up about finding his personal fashion identity, the differences he notices between Bollywood and Hollywood red carpets, why men should experiment with jewellery and the styling lessons he has learnt along the way.
Q. Your personal style balances understated dressing with distinctive details. How would you describe your fashion philosophy today, and how has it evolved?
When I first entered the industry, I was quite shy about making bold fashion choices. As I became more comfortable with my public persona, I started taking bigger risks with fashion. I worked with stylists who introduced me to flamboyant designs, statement accessories and unconventional cuts. However, when I looked back at photographs from those events, I sometimes felt that the outfits didn't really represent me.
Over the years, I've gradually discovered my own fashion voice and what makes me feel comfortable. Today, I enjoy experimenting with my wardrobe, especially for events, but I don't believe in trying something new simply for the sake of it. It still has to feel like me.
Recently, I've been exploring Japanese designers and Indian-American designers who create interesting fusion pieces, drawing inspiration from different cultures. In my everyday life, I prefer understated, classy clothing with a touch of personality. As an actor and public figure, I like expressing my individuality through fashion without necessarily trying to steal the spotlight.
Q. Is there a fashion trend you've tried but wouldn't revisit today?
One trend I've never really liked is oversized sunglasses. There was a period when they were everywhere, and I felt somewhat convinced to try them, even though I never found them particularly appealing. To me, they sometimes made people look like insects, with enormous eyes!
Looking back, I realised that the trend simply didn't suit me. It taught me the importance of trusting my own instincts rather than following what everyone else is wearing. Just because something is fashionable doesn't mean it will work for you.
Q. What's one wardrobe investment every man should consider, regardless of age or budget?
I'd encourage men to invest more in accessories beyond the conventional wristwatch. A necklace, a pinky ring, a bracelet or even earrings can make a significant difference to an outfit.
I got my ears pierced a couple of years ago, and I've really enjoyed experimenting with earrings. What's interesting about accessories is that they can influence how people perceive your face and overall appearance in a way that most clothing choices don't.
For someone just starting out, I'd recommend choosing versatile, understated pieces rather than immediately going for loud statement jewellery. Figure out whether rose gold, yellow gold or silver complements your skin tone, and then build a small collection that works with multiple outfits. The right accessories can tie an entire look together and add that finishing touch. And trust me, women notice these details!
Q. Having worked in both Bollywood and Hollywood, what differences have you noticed in how men approach fashion and red-carpet dressing?
Broadly speaking, in Hollywood, many major stars tend to dress classically, particularly when they're not attending an event such as the Met Gala. They focus on fine fabrics, distinctive cuts and good accessories, but they don't necessarily try to make a fashion statement every time they appear on a red carpet. They understand that they're actors first and often maintain a certain level of elegance and decorum.
In Bollywood, I sometimes feel that the desire to stand out becomes the main focus. An actor might think of a red carpet as an opportunity to grab attention, and that can lead to choices that are striking but don't necessarily look good. I sometimes describe this as the 'Rakhi Sawant syndrome' — where attracting attention becomes more important than how the outfit actually looks.
It's not always the actor's fault, either. Stylists can sometimes encourage choices that the actor may regret when they see the photographs later.
Of course, there are people in Hollywood who make very bold fashion choices, too. Someone like Colman Domingo is a great example of a genuine fashion enthusiast who understands fashion history and uses clothing to express his individuality. I think the distinction is often between making a bold choice because you genuinely love fashion and doing it simply to attract attention.
Q. When dressing for a red carpet, what influences your outfit choices?
The first thing I consider is where the red carpet is taking place and what's culturally appropriate for that event. One of my biggest frustrations is that red carpets in India have become increasingly informal, with people often turning up in T-shirts and jeans. I would love to dress up in a suit or something more formal, but I also have to consider whether that would make me look out of place. An Indian film screening, for instance, calls for a different approach from a GQ best-dressed event.
I also consider what's already available in my wardrobe because I travel frequently between continents and can't carry everything with me. If it's an event I'm particularly invested in, I'll work with a stylist to develop a look that suits the occasion.
The film itself can also influence my choices. If I'm attending a screening of a film about domestic abuse, for example, I wouldn't necessarily want to wear something extremely bright and flamboyant. I believe there's a certain decorum to maintain, especially when I'm part of the film.
I've also been inspired by the idea of dressing around a film character. I've seen this approach with people like Maitreyi Ramakrishnan and Zendaya, who draw inspiration from their characters when dressing for premieres and press tours. It's not about wearing exactly what the character would wear, but about reflecting the character's personality and symbolism through fashion. I really like that idea and am gradually trying to incorporate it into my own film premieres.
Q. Men's fashion is becoming more experimental, with jewellery, fluid silhouettes and gender-neutral styling. How do you see this evolution?
I believe fashion is an opportunity to express who you are. All of us have both masculine and feminine qualities, and at different stages of our lives, we might feel more inclined to express one side than the other. Fashion should give us the freedom to explore that without feeling restricted by traditional gender expectations.
In that sense, fashion has always been fluid and continues to evolve. One of my favourite examples is the high heel. It wasn't originally designed as feminine footwear. Its history is connected to men riding horses, when heels helped their feet stay in the stirrups. Over time, heels became associated with masculinity, royalty and status, particularly in European courts, before their meaning and design evolved into what we recognise today as women's high heels.
I love that story because it demonstrates how fashion elements can move between genders and acquire entirely different meanings over time. I think the same thing is happening today with silhouettes, jewellery and styling. Fashion is an ever-evolving art form, and I believe we should be open to borrowing from different traditions and expressing ourselves in whatever way feels authentic.
Q. For men who want to move beyond basic jeans and T-shirts, what are three simple ways to make everyday outfits look more polished?
I'd suggest three things.
First, understand your body type and dress accordingly. Not every style works the same way for everyone. A muscular man might look great in a simple T-shirt because of how it fits his shoulders and upper body, while someone with a slimmer build might benefit from layering. For example, I've sometimes preferred bomber jackets or polo shirts with higher collars because they help create a fuller-looking silhouette around my neck. The key is understanding what works for your body rather than blindly following trends.
Second, pay more attention to footwear. I often build an outfit starting with my shoes because they can inspire the rest of the look. If I choose loafers for a more formal occasion, I might pair them with straight-leg Italian trousers and a tucked-in button-down shirt with rolled-up sleeves. Men don't need to replace their entire wardrobe to make a difference. Start with a good pair of sneakers, some dress shoes or a pair of boots. I also think men in India could experiment more with boots because they add a lot of character to an outfit.
Third, experiment with accessories. Even a basic combination of jeans and a T-shirt can look more considered with a necklace, a few rings, a bracelet or a watch. These small additions can elevate an outfit without requiring a major investment in new clothes.
Q. Wide-leg and straight-leg trousers can feel intimidating to men accustomed to skinny jeans. What should they look for when trying these silhouettes?
I think we're moving away from skinny jeans and towards straighter silhouettes, not just in trousers but in denim as well. Personally, I've never been a fan of skinny jeans. Coming from Haryana, I have relatively large thighs, and I always found them uncomfortable when I wore them in the 2000s and 2010s.
However, moving away from skinny jeans doesn't mean that everything should be oversized or baggy. A straight-leg silhouette still needs structure and the right fit. Italian tailoring is a good example of how a trouser can have a relaxed shape while still looking refined.
Pay attention to the hem. You don't want it to sit so high that your ankles are exposed unless that's an intentional look, in which case the loafers and socks need to work together. At the same time, the trousers shouldn't be so long that excess fabric piles up around your shoes.
It's also important to get the fit right around the crotch. Too much excess fabric can make trousers look shapeless. The biggest mistake is assuming that the opposite of skinny jeans is baggy clothing. It isn't. A well-cut straight-leg trouser offers room and comfort while maintaining enough structure to create a flattering silhouette.
Q. How can men incorporate rings, chains and bracelets into their everyday wardrobe without feeling overdressed?
I think the easiest way to introduce accessories is to start with simple, versatile pieces rather than immediately going for bold statement jewellery.
A necklace, a pinky ring, a bracelet or a pair of earrings can add personality to even the most basic outfit. I got my ears pierced a couple of years ago, and I've really enjoyed wearing earrings. They can change the way your face looks and give your overall appearance a little more character.
I'd suggest starting with one or two pieces that you feel comfortable wearing regularly. Pay attention to whether silver, rose gold or yellow gold complements your skin tone, and choose pieces that work with several outfits in your wardrobe.
You don't need to wear everything at once. Even a simple T-shirt and jeans combination can look more intentional with a good necklace, a ring or a bracelet. Once you're comfortable with those staples, you can gradually experiment with more expressive statement pieces.
Q. What does your off-duty wardrobe look like? Is there an outfit you reach for when you want to feel confident without overthinking it?
I really like wearing straight-leg jeans, particularly dark-wash denim, with a light-coloured cotton T-shirt that fits me well. It's a simple combination, but when the T-shirt falls properly and the jeans give me a good silhouette, I feel comfortable and confident without looking too formal.
I'll usually add simple silver earrings, a black hat and a pair of interesting shoes. I tend to keep the jeans and T-shirt relatively understated, as I'm not particularly drawn to graphic prints or overly elaborate designs. Instead, I like my footwear to bring a little more personality to the outfit.
It's an easy, casual look that makes me feel ready to take on the day without having to overthink what I'm wearing.
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