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West Asia war designs challenges for Lucknow’s Chikankari industry; exports hit
Synonymous with the city’s cultural identity, the industry grapples with the combined impact of geopolitical tensions, trade barriers and global economic uncertainty
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The ongoing West Asia war has produced serious challenges for the famed Chikankari industry of Lucknow, hitting exports to the Gulf and Western nations as the slowdown poses a threat to the livelihood of nearly five lakh people in the state capital who depend directly or indirectly on Chikan embroidery and ready-made garment production for sustenance.
The centuries-old craft is a cornerstone of the city’s cultural and economic identity. It once thrived and generated significant revenue, representing Lucknow in the One District One Product (ODOP) initiative.
Now, it grapples with the combined impact of geopolitical tensions, trade barriers, and global economic uncertainty.
According to people associated with the industry, the Chikankari industry in Lucknow is valued at around ₹550 crore annually, including domestic trade and exports. Approximately ₹100 crore is exported to Gulf countries, while exports to European and other international markets account for around ₹70 crore. However, in over a month, shipments have come to a complete stop.
Earlier, tariffs imposed by the US had already caused serious disruptions in exports. The ongoing Gulf War has compounded the situation, according to those associated with the industry.
Vinod Punjabi, a prominent Chikan exporter and owner of a showroom in the state capital, explained the magnitude of the impact: “A large number of Indians, Pakistanis, Bangladeshis, Sri Lankans, Nepalis and Afghans live in the Gulf countries. They are all fond of Lucknow’s Chikankari apparel—from saris, shirts, kurtas, pyjamas, caps, and kotis to designer wedding dresses. Chikan clothing is a symbol of quality and elegance in the Gulf.”
“Pakistani and Bangladeshi buyers purchase as much as Indian expatriates do. The Gulf region has always been our largest market, with most orders custom-made for clients there. The current situation is threatening not only business, but the very survival of this heritage craft,” he added.
Suresh Chablani, senior vice-president of the Lucknow Chikan and Handicraft Association, said: “Lucknow has been a hub for Chikan embroidery exports for decades, with artisans and traders supplying high-demand markets across the Gulf. During peak periods, like the festive and marriage seasons, we used to export as much as ₹15 crore worth of apparel in a single month. But this year, exports during Eid and the marriage season have been zero. The Gulf war has badly hit our industry.”
Sanjeev Agarwal, president of the Lucknow Chikan Handicraft Association, highlighted the financial strain on traders and artisans.
“Exporters have invested crores of rupees in raw materials and advanced payments to artisans, but all that work is now lying idle in warehouses. These are export-quality garments that cannot be sold at high prices in India, as domestic buyers are unwilling to pay the same amount. Currently, around ₹2 crore worth of export-ready goods are sitting unsold in godowns.”
Fashion designer Asma Hussain, who works closely with both Chikankari and Aari-Zardozi artisans, added exports have declined by at least 60% overall and have been completely halted to West Asia.
“We export a major chunk of goods to the USA, UK, and the Gulf. Shipments are not reaching destinations on time. Meanwhile, raw material prices have risen by at least 20% due to petroleum-related panic. Even weddings in the Middle East have been postponed because of uncertainty and flight cancellations, which has further reduced demand,” she said.
Sanjeev Jhingran, secretary of the Lucknow Chikankari Association, said, “Customers are no longer as enthusiastic about Chikankari products as they used to be. People are hesitating, thinking twice before buying. Even party wear clothing is not being purchased with the same zeal. Many Dubai exhibitions have been postponed, which is one of the main reasons for the decline.”
Runa Banerji, a Padma Shri awardee recognised for her contribution to Chikankari, warned, “Exports have been affected, and soon the livelihoods of artisans will also be under threat. This is not just an economic issue—it is a challenge to the survival of a craft that has defined Lucknow for centuries.”
Experts say that if the current conditions persist, the Chikankari industry could face long-term setbacks, a stark reminder of how global geopolitical tensions and trade disruptions can ripple through local economies, putting traditional crafts and artisan communities at the mercy of events far beyond their control.
For Lucknow, a city where Chikan embroidery is both a symbol of heritage and a vital economic lifeline, the immediate challenge is to survive the current crisis while safeguarding the artisans whose skill and dedication have kept the craft alive for generations, Vinod Punjabi said.
