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Nomadic, desert influences in Jain's collection
Amid strains of nomadic music, designer Payal Jain's fashion week collection brings to mind the whistling sands of Arabia and the swirling skirt of a gypsy.
Amid strains of nomadic music, designer Payal Jain's fashion week collection brings to mind the whistling sands of Arabia and the swirling skirt of a gypsy.
Jain's colour-rich collection, The Wandering Mendicant is a visual treat with a stunning mosaic of patchwork and beading culminating in a nomadic, tribal look - the perfect tribute to the desert-dweller.
There is an erotic assortment of skirts of varied lengths, layered wraparounds and pants paired with crochet gillnets, bandana style bustiers, form-fitting vests, which accentuate the bust line, and structured jackets.
"The collection is inspired by the lives of the desert people whose journey through life is vast and vivid like the desert itself. The outfits are an ode to the relentless, multi-cultural undying spirit of the wandering mendicant," Jain told IANS.
Through her collection, Jain has brought into play Indian craftsmanship with each garment being an enriched synthesis of heritage fabrics and workmanship in a modern interpretation.
The collection has strong global travel references to top tourist destinations like Arabia, Africa, Morocco and Jaisalmer, but in a crafted, old-fashioned way. The usage of pattern, decoration and embellishment is an important aspect.
Behind the mosaic look lie fabric treatments that have been stirred by the desert wanderers and are rustic in their appeal.
Jain, who terms it "a textile-oriented collection", has explored a mix of delicate fabrics and energetic colours. Textures are thrilling with three-dimensional fabrics leaping to the eye. The multi-layered garments weave a story of the burning hues of nature connecting illusions to reality.
The romantic, nomadic mood of the designs juxtaposes energetic fabrics with delicate, intricate detailing and embellishment. The collection is a blend of nomadic patchwork, hand block printing with embellishments of ornate rustic beading and textured embroidery.
Traditional vegetable-dyed block printed silks and woven jacquards provide a mix matched look. The colours are earth baked browns, deep saturated terracotta reds, vibrant indigo blues, weed greens and burnt oranges.
This earthy palette gives way to an aqua story inspired by the desert oasis and finally goes on to celebrate the spirit of freedom through a bright vibrant story of scarlet red, eggplant, turquoise, jade and tangerine.
Jain has taken the caravan trial, crossing the deserts and getting to the essentials in fabrics that are inspired by nature and its elements. Decorative patterns and the contrast of effervescent colours have been worked in traditional tribal beadings and ethnic batik and block prints, updated with a modern edge.
Accentuating interplay of textures and treatments, Jain has blended architectural abstract styles and organic shapes that take root in the history of deserts.
