Paris Fashion Week: Punk, workwear, and inventive silhouettes collide as Sacai takes center stage

Designer and founder Chitose Abe taps into Sacai's signature codes while drawing inspiration from the 70s punk movement, symbolizing resistance and change.

The sweltering Paris heat wave, leaving exhausted fashionistas nearly baked in the leafy courtyard of an esteemed Sorbonne University campus, met its stylish adversary: Sacai’s spring men’s co-ed fashion show. The biting Parisian heat was momentarily forgotten as attendees, clutching eco-water for relief, were drawn into Sacai’s final display for this season’s Paris Fashion Week.

Watch: Paris Fashion Week: Menswear Show Unites Fashion, Star Power, and Martial Aura | HT Lifestyle

This year, designer and founder Chitose Abe ventured into Sacai’s signature codes while drawing from the spirit of the 70s punk movement, a cultural emblem of resistance during a world in flux. The result was a creative dialogue between fashion’s past and future, between rebellion and uniformity.

Here are some highlight's of Sunday's spring-summer 2024 collections:

SACAI MIXES IT UP

Abe’s exploration of uniformity emerged in a head-to-toe approach, matching jackets, shirts, and pants in either pinstripe, denim, or floral print, demonstrating the designer’s skill at reinventing traditional fabrics into a unified look.

Classic suiting was “hybridized,” as the house called it, as Abe blended denim with suiting fabrics and spliced floral print with 1940s French workwear-inspired moleskin. Cutting and sewing techniques allowed these prints to live anew as appliqué details. It was a fabulous touch.

The experiment with traditional suiting fabrics, from pinstripe and tweed to cotton gabardine, took a different turn through with folded pleats. This allowed Abe to surreally shrink proportions and create innovative silhouettes, visible in generous peplums, pants and skirts, and intricate folds within knitwear.

She continued to redefine the familiar. Abe embraced a fun “inside out” idea, inverting common clothing styles for a fresh perspective. Notably, a sleeveless trench was restructured, its fabric slashed and condensed for a slimmer shape.

The collection culminated with a refreshingly hopeful declaration: “Know Future.” A playful reinterpretation of punk’s infamous proclamation, this statement anchored Sacai’s collection in an optimistic anticipation of a better world to come — even as the world around us now appears bleak.

Sacai’s show was the grand finale to Paris Fashion Week, a testament to Abe’s ability to captivate critics and audiences alike. As the sun set on Paris, Sacai’s spring men’s fashion show offered a defiant, hopeful end to a week marked by style and creativity.

WOOYOUNGMI: SENSUALITY MEETS STREET

Wooyoungmi’s Sunday show at Paris Fashion Week was a fusion of funk and sex appeal. The brand’s craftsmanship was apparent in the refined collection presented to the audience, which was humorously given pearly silk sleeping masks, acknowledging the concluding day of an intense week.

The collection exhibited Wooyoungmi’s mastery over fabric manipulation and fit. Every piece, from oversized sheer chemises with teasing ruffles to the pearly silken shorts, was cut to perfection, expertly tailored to create a visual spectacle while maintaining a sophisticated look. Each stitch and seam bore testament to Wooyoungmi’s attention to detail.

The South Korean brand’s craft was not only seen in the sensual pieces but also the streetwear elements. A seemingly casual baseball cap was carefully paired with baggy jeans and a sheer, oversized basketball shirt - a composition that celebrated both the structure of sports attire and the sensual mood of the collection. The elements came together to form an intriguingly athletic yet sensual silhouette, showcasing Wooyoungmi’s design prowess.

But it was perhaps the billowing, sheeny cargo pants that best illustrated Wooyoungmi’s craftsmanship. The unique piece featured voluminous ruching at the bottom, creating an imaginative, timeless design that somehow seemed both historic and futuristic.

QUEER ELEGANCE EMBRACED BY SAINT SERNIN

French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin showed his Spring Summer 2024 menswear collection in Paris, marking a return to his roots with “Lust,” a celebration of queer desire, joy and power. He offered an elegant wardrobe embracing queer expression.

Key pieces included airy mermaid skirts, gowns with contrasting leather busts and lightweight tailoring, all meticulously crafted from gossamer Japanese tweeds. Front-laced leather corsets mirrored the design of the brand’s signature bag.

The collection upheld the brand's penchant for leather, evident in minimal moto racer jackets, harnessed bralettes and lace-up briefs. Cropped denim jackets and relaxed jeans were presented in an earthy palette, while shimmering Swarovski-sponsored crystal mesh was employed in net-hemmed gowns and halterneck tops.

The “Lust” collection reaffirmed Saint Sernin’s commitment to celebrating nuanced, proud queer identity.

BED J.W. FORD UNVEILS COLLECTION WITH A TWIST

On a sunny Sunday in Paris, Shinpei Yamagishi’s label, BED j.w. FORD, debuted its latest collection with a fashion-forward summer flair. This show clearly carried forward Yamagishi’s signature approach of blending personal nostalgia with a distinct contemporary outlook.

The collection was abound with funky striped baggy shorts, loose white cotton vests, and straw-colored hats, giving a nod to the leisurely essence of summer. However, Yamagishi, ever the master of juxtaposition, disrupted this breezy feel subtly with elements of urban wear such as clunky city loafers and oversized suede boots adorned with zippers.

The collection smoothly transitioned into an array of loose suits that managed to toe the line between relaxed and refined. A standout piece was Yamagishi’s take on workman’s blue pants with a utilitarian zipper horizontally across the crotch, striking a balance between functional and trendy.

Staying true to BED j.w. FORD’s inclination for gender-fluid fashion, the collection introduced golden animal print skirt-shorts, paired intriguingly under a soft black women’s jacket with a chain hem. This playful mix of feminine and masculine elements highlighted Yamagishi’s skillful design ethos and reaffirmed the brand’s standing as an fashion forward player.